When sent the press release for Dali and Schiaparelli, a deep groan may or may not have been elicited (if that gives you an idea of my level of interest). It’s not that I’m anti-haute couture, it’s just that the persuasive powers of orthopedic insoles in a cushiony pair of running shoes is wildly underestimated (don’t give me that condemning eyebrow raise, I’m well aware of my fashion sins). It’s just that high heels just don’t get me on that intimate level.
That being said, I was pleasantly surprised by my enthusiasm for this exhibition. Designer Elsa Schiaparelli was a household name between the two World Wars, and kept close ties with Dalí as a friend, muse and collaborator. Clearly ahead of her time, I’ll let you play I-Spy to see what current or recent fashion trends she spearheaded (cough, cough, hombre). Overall, “shock and awe” would be the perfect way to describe how her work was received by the fashion world.
But don’t let the main press image of a butterfly-inspired gown fool you; it’s pretty misleading and portrays Schiaparelli as some froufrou designer — and it doesn’t exactly encompass her vision because, well, she seemed to go in whatever direction her imagination led her. While her silk organza butterfly evening dress is on display, many of her works have an air of darkness, playfulness or wild daring right in line with Mr. Mustache’s reputation — and the pairings of each artist’s work couldn’t be more spot-on.
Take one of my favorites: her evening dress and veil known as the “Torn Dress.” The trompe l’oeil trickery is brilliant, where the “rips” printed on the silk organza at the bottom of the dress turn into dimensional (but still not real) tears at the top of the dress that are even outfitted with little flaps. Its elegance is unmistakable, but the mysterious darkness mirrors Dalí’s painting “Three Young Surrealist Women Holding in Their Arms the Skins of an Orchestra” to a T.
“We wanted to create this for a long time, and it took a while to accomplish. This is in part a personal desire because I am fascinated by fashion, and I’m always surprised that it’s trivialized and marginalized. Art and fashion are really just different modes of the same thing, asking who we are and how we find our place in the world,” says Dr. Hank Hine, Dalí Museum Executive Director and curator of this exhibition.
The cherry on top of the nipple (you’ll just have to go to get that) is the smaller partitioned room where you can find Maison Schiaparelli design director Bertrand Guyon’s pieces created with Dalí and Schiaparelli in mind. No, it’s not exactly Schia’s work, but by mixing the cheekiness of both artists, Guyon has created contemporary looks that would make her smile down from Fashion Heaven. Even better: No lobsters were harmed in the making of these dresses.
While this could easily be a gendered exhibition, if you put wearability aside, anyone of any background could easily get lost in the artistry and craftsmanship of Schiaparelli’s haute couture. This is your excuse to drag your man here (but may I recommend he not wear sweatpants?). You’re welcome.
Caitlin Albritton, CL Tampa's visual arts critic, spends her time tracking down art you might not see anywhere else. She's also an artist in her own right. Follow her on Instagram or read her blog.
