Order white wine and this elegant appetizer, its deep flamingo color reminiscent of the fantastic pink exterior of the Don CeSar Resort nearby. On the plate alongside the cold fish is a mound of diced raw onion, capers, lemon and a pool of satiny dipping sauce. Chef Karim Nouri, better known as Chef Carino, who trained in Milan, also does a beautiful job with a classic Milanese-style antipasto platter: thinly sliced zucchini and eggplant, sliced tomato crowned with mozzarella and marinated beans.
Carino's Northern Italian Caffe and Lounge, 9524 Blind Pass Road, St. Pete Beach, 727-360-8502.
This article appears in Sep 25 – Oct 1, 2003.