In a restaurant teeming with wine, the staff wine geek plays an important role and wears a fancy title: Sommelier. So it makes sense that the penultimate of wine geeks in Tampa Bay stands watch at Bern's Steak House: Ken Collura. In the calming bordello-like atmosphere of this legendary wine haven, Ken gently holds your hand as you wade through the pages of the overwhelming 2,500-selection wine list. Under his tutelage, the process is simple: Provide your price range (a highly acceptable practice) and favorite wine type, and out of his head pops several choices for your meal. You'll find that Ken's wine knowledge is depthless, his enthusiasm endless and his patience enduring. If you're seeking the obscure, the old or the fruity, Ken's got you covered.
Bern's, 1208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, 813-251-2421 or www.bernssteakhouse.com.
This article appears in Sep 25 – Oct 1, 2003.