As each small plate arrives, first there’s a hush, then a moan, then an “oh, my” followed by an excited exchange of tablewide commentary as each dish disappears in a few shared bites. Luscious slices of pork belly are topped with homemade cornbread and accompanied by pickled apples. Roasted cauliflower florets come surrounded by golden raisins coated in walnut bread crumbs that swim in a nutty brown butter sauce. And it’s all brought to the table in seamlessly choreographed manner — five-star service in T-shirts and jeans.
This article appears in Sep 18-24, 2014.