3.5 stars
2501 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, 727-498-8584
Photos by JamesOstrand.com.
How lightly do I have to tread in this review? For a straight writer, reviewing a largely gay bar and restaurant owned by two gay men — called Queenshead, for God's sake — is tough to do without resorting to stereotypes and puns. Thankfully, the food is good enough — and the scene inclusive enough — to make all that filler moot.
The owners are British ex-pats Paul Smith and Darren Conner. Conner has experience working in the restaurant and bar scene across the world, from England to Cambodia, while Smith has a past life as an art director for tabloids like the National Enquirer and The Daily Mirror. Queenshead's menu is more straightforward than either of those former careers might indicate.
It's largely British gastropub fare peppered by American fine-dining influence, with dishes that range from seared scallops with brussels sprouts and bacon to chicken curry with a corn fritter. And, considering that many people will see Queenshead as more of a bar and scene spot, much of the food is better than expected. Props to chef Chris Greer, who worked under Domenica Macchia last year at MJ's.
This article appears in Aug 26 – Sep 1, 2009.