Asiatic Street Food & Noodle Bar
2.5 out of 5 stars
Centro Ybor, 1600 E. Eighth Ave. #D101, Tampa. Appetizers: $4-$7; entrees: $9.50-$16; drinks: $2.50-$3.50. 813-284-5317; asiaticstreetfood-noodle.com.
There's been a real renaissance in terrific Asian food across Tampa Bay over the past few years. Off the top of my head, I can rattle off the names of more than a handful of places where I was wowed and surprised by flavors. Indeed, the culinary bounty of the Eastern hemisphere figured prominently in my choices for last June's Food Issue, so a high bar exists for any new establishment entering the market.
Inside the embracing town square that is Tampa's Centro Ybor, Asiatic Street Food & Noodle Bar promises food that's "fast, authentic and flavorful — casual cuisine inspired by the streets of Southeast Asia."
Our appetizers fare well. While most of the cuisine is distinctly Thai, we're able to include a taste of Japan and India as we begin — first with gyoza, a thin, pleated pastry dumpling stuffed with ground chicken, ginger, water chestnuts, red pepper and green onions. The dumplings are steamed, then pan-fried to add flavor from caramelization. As you pick them up with your chopsticks (practice makes perfect), a quick dip in citrus soy sauce adds the perfect accent of salt and acidity.
Even better are the tiny triangular samosa bites. The deep-fried golden-brown flaky flour pastry dough is stuffed with sweet-spiced potatoes, onion and peas. Although these are bite-size triangles, they carry all the flavor of a typical samosa, and the bright orange pepper sauce provides a nice hit of heat.
Then there's my old friend pork belly, which has risen over the last decade from being a marginalized ingredient to becoming an ubiquitous trend. Its place as street food stems from being able to deliver loads of flavor at a budget price. At its best, there's an unmatchable lushness; I often jokingly, but reverentially, refer to it as "pork foie gras." When it falls short, the meat can be chewy, and the untamed pork fat is frankly gross. The modern sous-vide technique, which cooks the vacuum-sealed protein low and slow, results in a culinary wonder for pork aficionados. Asiatic's pork belly is not perfectly lush, but the thick slices are fried crispy, and the viscous caramelized five-spice dipping sauce is just right. So far, so good.
Thai Boat Noodle is a bowl of hearty seasoned beef broth blended with cilantro, green onion, Chinese broccoli and basil that's topped with meatballs and thin strips of beef. Plus, of course, oodles of rice noodles. Sadly, I've been spoiled lately by complex broths; this is a bit one-note. It's filling, not thrilling.
With our choice of chicken, Curry Fried Rice Pineapple is somehow less than the sum of its parts. Despite fresh carrots, peas, tomato and green onion, as well as egg and cashews, the fried rice is timid. The curry is extremely mild with not enough pineapple or chicken to elevate the dish. It's a one-dimensional pile that seems more like a side than a main course.
The most satisfying dish of our entrees is Kwang Toey Shrimp, whose base is wide noodles tossed in sweet five-spiced soy sauce with a pile of mushrooms and bean sprout tofu. Sprinkled with cilantro and toasted garlic, it's topped with a few succulent shrimp, sliced barbecue pork and pork belly. The multiple proteins lend interest, but once they're gone, there's a sense of monotony. Sadly, the entrees aren't on par with our appetizers.
Though there's not yet a list of beer and wine, I do manage to get a glass of Chateau Ste. Michelle riesling, an affordable off-dry wine from Washington state. The wine's touch of sweetness makes it a great match for this food (or any spicy cuisine like Indian or Mexican). I'm often frustrated by restaurants with limited wine selections that fail to include the grapes that match well with their food. Restaurants are in a position to lead and educate diners. Sure, they need to stock the grapes that are familiar or in vogue, but they'll sell even more by guiding clients to the wine that will enhance their dining experience. Smart restaurateurs make the connection for their guests. You don't need a sommelier on staff, just trained servers or some prompts on the menu. Unfortunately, I happen upon this choice only by asking; my server is friendly, but clueless. There's a missed opportunity here.
Asiatic doesn't offer dessert, but Thai iced tea almost qualifies. It's served in a rustic Mason jar-style mug and topped with an iceberg of whipped cream. The cream, sadly, isn't freshly whipped; it's got a slight off taste that betrays its origin. I can't quite determine if it's a Cool Whip derivative (my companions say no), or if it's from an aerosol. Less-picky diners may enjoy the sweet concoction. In any case, it's really fun to watch — kind of like a lava lamp — as the white cream descends in swirls into the dark tea. The drink should fit the bill for those who need a sweet to end their meal.
If you're in Ybor City looking for a quick Asian fix, this will suffice. But Asiatic fails to clear the bar set by its more exciting competitors around the bay.
Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.
This article appears in Apr 6-13, 2017.