3.5 out of 5 stars
6607 N. Florida Ave., Tampa. Chicken/catfish: $9-$15.50; sides: $3-$6; cookies: $4; soft drinks: $2.
813-232-2667; king-of-the-coop.business.site.
It’s the fierceness of the eyes that first catch your attention. Next, the muscular, bulging, folded arms with their “take no prisoners stance” which shout of some Marvel comic superhero. Then you register that the bright cobalt blue plumage is mixed with flashes of fuchsia, purple, and goldenrod which culminate in cascading tail feathers worthy of the biggest cock of the walk.
Finally, there’s a shiny gold crown with its jaunty tilt, plus a heavy chain with a blingy gold medallion announcing who is “King of the Coop.” Take that, you nasty motherpluckers.
Much like a TV series with distinctive characters who get promoted to their own show in a spin-off, Armature Works’ Soul Food Kitchen has put its most popular sandwich into the spotlight. It’s “Nashville hot” fried chicken that’s the order of the day at Joe Dodd’s new Seminole Heights joint, unless you substitute catfish for a $3.50 upcharge. Otherwise, you just have to decide how much heat you can take even if you’re not in the kitchen. There’s a clearly delineated firearchy. Naked (no heat, no spice), Lil Biddy (no heat, all flavor), Nashville Hot (signature heat) and Coop’s Fury (signature heat kicked up with habanero) — “it won’t send you home crying, but Coop reminds you who’s King.”
When you only do one thing, you can concentrate on doing it right. Dodd marinates the chicken in buttermilk for 24 hours before hand-breading and frying it to order in the open kitchen. All choices come with crispy fries that are fresh and piping hot. They’re seasoned with what looks like a sprinkling of dry rub or Cajun spices, but what shines is just pure potato flavor.
We try the crispy leg and thigh quarter without heat, the Dirty Bird sandwich Nashville hot, which drizzles white meat chicken tenders with a spicy mayo-based King sauce, and just some Nashville hot tenders unadorned but accompanied by crisp, well-dressed shredded slaw and thin, house-made bread and butter pickles that are just a delight. The crispy breading sticks to the skin and imparts delightful crunch to balance the tender, juicy meat.
Everything is served in black plastic baskets lined with red-and-white checkerboard paper. Drinks are self-serve in clear plastic cups filled with ice. There are canned Coke products, plus refillable containers circulating lemonade, sweet tea, and the Kool-Aid of the day.
Creamed collard greens are actually mild, there’s no spine of vinegar or an overt ham hock smokiness that you find with many collard recipes. These collards are accessible for diners who may not have previously been lovers of greens. They’ve managed a tasty mouthful without a hint of bitterness.
The six jalapeño cheddar hush puppies are a family recipe from Dodd’s grandparents’ restaurant in southern Indiana. They’re actually not too spicy, but they are a nice counterpoint, especially served with the King’s own dense pimento cheese.
Dessert is limited to a bundle of three cookies from the online shop “Pretty Baked.”
“Who makes these?,” I ask slyly of the gent taking our order at the counter.
“I do!,” he replies, pointing to the handsomely packaged trio of delicious chocolate peanut butter cookies which make a perfect end to our trip to Florida Avenue.
These are a seductive blend of pure cocoa with peanut butter in a dough studded with Reese’s-type peanut butter candies. My tablemates are all smiles as we chomp and moan with our mouths full. But the company offers six varieties from the classic oatmeal raisin to ones featuring Kit-Kat bars or “cinnamon toast crunch” snickerdoodles. So be prepared, who knows what will be on display if you visit.
The Coop has just four tables inside, but there’s also outdoor seating in the back and an active to-go business. The line out the door says all you need to know; Joe Dodd’s spin-off has hit the sweet spot for hot chicken. Indeed, the menu is summed up by the motto on the wall that is simple and proud: “It Ain’t Food If It Ain’t Fried.”
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
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This article appears in Jul 11-18, 2019.