Marrakech Restaurant
2.5 stars
2402 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa, 813-258-9100
XXX and XXX, husband and wife owners of Marrakech Restaurant in Tampa, come from separate continents, across the Mediterranean Sea. She's Moroccan, he's French, two nationalities that have an entwined history apparent to anyone who's seen Casablanca. And, although XXX is a classically trained French chef, the menu at Marrakech is almost entirely devoted to the cuisine of his wife's homeland.
That means rich dishes that blend sweet and savory on the same plate, often using dried fruit like prunes, aromatic spices like cinnamon and less common ingredients like preserved lemon. Entrees are divided between humble couscous topped with rich meats and stewed vegetables; elegant pastry pockets called pastilla, stuffed with vegetables, chicken or seafood; and an array of dishes served in the impressive, portable clay ovens called tagine.
And, like Tampa's recent flirtation with Ethiopian food at Queen of Sheba and the defunct Abol Bunna, it's traditional. Perhaps too traditional.
This article appears in Sep 30 – Oct 7, 2009.