Damn, this stout pours from the bottle like a velvet painting of chocolate syrup, thick and opaque. At first glance, I feel like I might have to chew it. The rich chocolate and toffee nose backs that up, but it's more bittersweet dark than the milky richness that I expect from a cream stout.
In the mouth, well, it doesn't deliver. The body's a little lighter than anticipated, the chocolate flavors seem torched and roasted and there's none of the sweet silkyness I associate with cream stout. Even with all that, it's a meaty little drink that seems to get stuck in my back teeth. I might end up chewing this, after all.
St. Peter's Cream Stout – 2.5 stars
This article appears in Sep 5-11, 2007.