I understand that we don't live in one of the big cities, but sometimes there are certain, uhm, amenities that I find myself craving with an intensity that scares my wife. Would I move to San Francisco just to have local salumi delivered to my door? I'm thinking about it.
Cured pork is all the rage across the country, with a lot of chefs getting into the act, but Chris Cosentino of
Incanto Restaurant in San Francisco has taken things one step farther. He plans on operating his personal curing operation — Boccalone — like a CSA. Yep, join the club and every week you'll be eligible for a box full of "tasty salted pig parts", perhaps the four most appetizing words in our language.
Ok, so maybe I can resign myself to the fact that the local salumi craze likely won't hit the Bay area for a decade or so, if we follow our normal culinary trend adoption timeline, but surely there must be some old and new local pork lovers out there going elbow deep in the lardo for fun and profit? Anyone know where I can find them, to tide me over?
This article appears in Aug 22-28, 2007.

