Sure it seems an odd choice at a restaurant that prides itself on Cali-Baja cuisine, but don’t underestimate the power of a skilled cook and a hot grill. The rib eye hits the table with the fat still sizzling underneath a salty, deeply browned crust. Cut through the crackling exterior, and you’ll find ruby red meat marbled with veins of nearly liquid fat. There’s a spicy Mex-seasoned butter globbed on top, but it’s unnecessary. That compound butter is damn tasty, though, especially when it drips onto the creamy mashed potatoes.
This article appears in Sep 12-18, 2007.