LIVING THE DREAM: Ray Lampe, aka Dr. BBQ, has gone from truck driver to national celebrity. Credit: Courtesy Ray Lampe

In select circles, Dr. BBQ is a Central Florida legend who's made a living out of a dream — sort of.

Eight years ago, Ray Lampe was driving trucks for a delivery service outside of Chicago and competing in barbecue contests around the Midwest in his spare time. By then, he'd won a slew of awards for his accomplished 'cue. When the company he worked for was sold, he bought a concession truck and moved to Florida to sell smoked meats on the mean streets of Lakeland. He hasn't looked back.

I met Ray Lampe last year at a barbecue-judging seminar in Plant City, where his spiky blond hair, long goatee, prodigious girth and tattooed wristwatch (perpetually set to 5:01 p.m.) set him apart from the rest of the good ol' boys. That was just a few months before he was named executive chef of Southern Hospitality, Justin Timberlake's New York City barbecue restaurant. In last week's issue, our very own Jaden Hair featured one of his recipes in "Steamy Kitchen."

I recently talked to Dr. BBQ, who still lives in Lakeland, about his rise from amateur smoker to national celebrity.

CL: How did you go from truck driver to professional barbecue guy?

All my barbecue friends dreamed about doing it. I didn't have a family, and I didn't have any obligations, so it wasn't difficult. I came down here before I learned that everyone comes to Florida with the intention of selling something in the parking lot or on the side of the road.

How long did it take you to start making a living as Dr. BBQ?

You're assuming I already am. It was a downhill slide for the first three years. I started barbecue cooking classes and tried to get affiliated with a grill company, then [the barbecue grill company] Big Green Egg took a chance on me and, boy, it's been a great relationship. My first book deal in 2005 [Dr. BBQ's Big Time Barbecue Book] was the first year I didn't go further in debt. It costs a lot of money to be Dr. BBQ, to travel and cook stuff. Now I get paid, but I used to do it all for free.

A few years ago, Maxim called one of my friends and wanted to cook three whole pigs — in a pit, on a spit and on the grill — for an article. My friend told them we were experts, which was all complete bullshit, but we didn't want to miss out on being in Maxim. They said they didn't have any budget to pay us, but we said we'd come anyway. We drove to New Jersey and cooked three hogs basically for two bottles of Jack Daniels. We slept on the writer-guy's couch.

Any advice for people who want to live a similar dream?

I've got the silly little beard and shit, but it's all about being a personality, about being entertaining without compromising. I've been really active over the years; it's been very good for business. I just go on being who I am, and people suddenly [find] it valuable. People knock Guy Fieri [Food Network host and Lampe's friend], but he's exactly like he was five years ago. I guarantee you that guy's the one who's making the decisions about how to present himself.

How did you get the gig at Southern Hospitality?

Honestly, they found me on the Internet. I'm not a restaurant guy who'll be working 80 hours a week in the place, but I know how to fix your BBQ recipes and teach your guys. They have expansion plans, so I'll be a spokesman and keep an eye on the food.

New York is in the middle of a barbecue craze. How does the Big Apple's 'cue stack up with the rest of the country's?

I've been to the big places, like Daisy Mae and Blue Smoke, Hill Country and Dinosaur. In New York, you can't just be an old-school barbecue joint — you have to optimize every inch of the place to make money. I'm a big fan of Blue Smoke; they stuck their neck out when there were no barbecue joints in New York. It's different, with specialty drinks and private-label bourbon and a barista. The chef is a real seasoned New York chef, yet they serve damn good barbecue.

Southern Hospitality is also a New York-style restaurant, yet we're serving real good food.

What does Justin like to eat?

He came in when I was there one night, we knew he was coming, and I just offered to send stuff to the table. I thought he might be an L.A. salad eater type, but he was open to everything I sent out, wanted to try a lot of different things.

What's next for Dr. BBQ?

I have the NFL Gameday Cookbook coming out in May. I'm also teaching barbecue classes at the Greenbriar in West Virginia.

What's your life like now that you've made the big time?

I'm trying not to have a job. What I've got is a whole bunch of little jobs, a lot of it is like vacation stuff, but I get paid for it. It's a lot of fun being me these days.

Locally, you can find Dr. BBQ teaching classes at Rolling Pin Kitchen Emporium (813-653-2418, rollingpinonline.com) in Brandon. On Tues., March 11, he'll participate in Rolling Pin's International Association of Culinary Professionals benefit for the New Orleans Crescent City Farmer's Market, along with other local culinary luminaries like Giuliano Hazan, Fabrizio Schendardi and CL's Jaden Hair.