A friend recently wondered how I could possibly enjoy the TV show Hell’s Kitchen. I was accused of being terrible because I liked it. The message went, in part,

“While I am the first to admit that cooking for a crowd (of friends) can be stressful, I simply cannot imagine eating any of the food that any of these people prepare … including 'Chef Ramsay'. I cannot believe that you would really promote this kind of monstrosity regarding food. I still hear your delight with watching this program, and I simply cannot understand it.”

Instead of trying to explain myself or take on the dubious task of defending the show, a story came to mind. I was in Apalachicola to eat, lecture, gather some Florida food research and, unbeknownst to me, cook.

This article appears in Mar 25-31, 2009.