Editor's note: CL food critic Jon Palmer Claridge is in Vancouver doing "research." This is part two of an ongoing series sharing his culinary adventures.
Serendipity is one of the things I love most about travel. When I venture out to taste in the vineyards of British Columbia (see my latest Drink More Wine), I have no idea I'm about to discover some of the tastiest and most inventive preserves of my life.
Just 45 minutes south of Vancouver overlooking the Campbell Valley and Golden Ears mountains, Vista D’oro Farms & Winery provides an ultimate agritourism experience. In addition to vinifera grapes, the operation grows heritage orchard fruits. And it is with these that the jam master, Lee Murphy, plies her craft in The Preservatory.
The Preservatory has been producing a line of six flavors per season since 2002. Murphy sticks to purely traditional, old world techniques with small batches using copper pots. The fruit is always grown locally (either at Vista D’oro or at other trusted farms nearby) and used in-season. By preparing perfectly ripe fruit by hand, there's no need to add additional pectin, only sugar and lemon juice. The fruits' own naturally occurring pectin makes a softer set to allow for peak flavor and texture.
Murphy's preserves are a cook's dream. While they may be great on scones, toast or with cheese and charcuterie, the imaginative flavors give you great versatility for glazes, vinaigrettes or to finish sauces. They even offer a craft beer jam.
My favorites were heirloom green tomato and garam masala — balanced and great for a touch of India (fall), the magical combo of strawberry and balsamic with some pink peppercorn (spring), and apricot with tarragon and riesling, which makes me drool when I think of slathering it on grilled chicken. The website has suggestions for everything from tacos to cocktails.
This article appears in Jul 28 – Aug 4, 2016.