Vuelo Mexican Grill
3 out of 5 stars
17641 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa. Appetizers: $4-$13; entrees: $12-$28; desserts: $6 – $7; wine by the glass: $5-$13. 813-972-4800; vuelomexicangrill.com.
With all the restaurants opening in SoHo, Hyde Park and along St. Petersburg's Central Avenue corridor, it's easy to lose sight of the fact that, outside the downtowns, the Bay area is growing and thriving and people need some place new to eat. North in "New Tampa," what was once a desolate, two-lane country road in the 80s is now a major thoroughfare: Bruce B. Downs, named after a dedicated public servant who loved roads and died prematurely.
However, locating Vuelo Mexican Grill on the buzzing boulevard takes an eagle eye. Luckily, I'm meeting friends who arrive early and unlock the secret like Gasparilla buried treasure hunters. It seems that access requires a right at Pilot Bank, followed by two left turns in a loop to finally access the parking lot. Otherwise, you whizz by, see the sign, but have no way to exit. The late Bruce B. Downs, a transportation guru, would not approve.
Chef Mark Estee (a 2013 James Beard semifinalist) promises "hand-crafted Mexican for modern times" at Vuelo. It's nice to see that they prominently feature a fresh salsa bar with a wide range of flavors to spice up your plates.
Their complementary salsa, with chips, is unusual. It's a puréed affair that resembles Hormel chili dog topping, but tastes of tomatoes and spice. We decide to add some house-made guacamole as we enjoy our chips. Though fresh and creamy, it includes no tomato, and the garlic and lime are subdued. Plus, there's an unexpected bitter (not necessarily bad) note on the finish. Still, the seductive creaminess of avocados is hard to ignore.
Oven-roasted cast-iron cauliflower sounds too good to resist. It's a big serving of florets drizzled with green chile salsa and avocado cream, then sprinkled with a scattering of torn tortillas and cotija cheese. Somehow, though, something seems missing; it's pleasant rather than exciting.
I land on street tacos for my entree choice since I can compare three different fillings on 6-inch white corn tortillas. My carnivore trifecta of pork carnitas, achiote chicken and spicy chorizo is well-seasoned and full of flavor. However, eating them side by side, I'm aware of a textural monotony. Despite the presence of queso fresco, pico de gallo and fresh lime, there's nothing that makes the tacos stand out. With so many "designer tacos" competing in the current market, you notice the lack of a distinctive edge.
The menu's grand presentation is "bubbling molcajete" (mole-ka-HAY-tay). Authentic, hand-carved volcanic rock bowls are often used mortar-and–pestle-style for grinding spices or making guacamole. Or, in this case, as a dramatic serving vessel for your choice of three stews. We skip the filet mignon and veggies, opting for seafood. Our mix of juicy shrimp and tiny succulent bay scallops, with chunks of catfish and snapper, floats in a thick tomato-seafood broth. It arrives triumphantly topped with crossed grilled asparagus sporting alluring char.
After 5 p.m. daily, the restaurant adds asada platters served on sizzling cast-iron skillets to the lunchtime fare of tacos, tortas, burritos and enchiladas. All the asada protein choices come with crispy sweet plantains, a hearty yucca mash and bits of shaved street corn. We go for the wood oven-roasted gulf shrimp with creamy verde and shishito peppers. It's quite straightforward, allowing you to appreciate the pure shellfish flavor before chomping down on a charred, blistered pepper, which is safely edible rather than red hot.
The ubiquitous accompaniments of rice (red or green) and beans (black, pinto or refried) are nicely done with no unwelcome surprises. I guarantee you won't leave hungry. If you're a tequila fan, a visit to Vuelo will make you feel like a kid in a candy store. The restaurant, with 75-plus tequilas, is happy to tempt you with horizontal (same style, different brands) and vertical (same brand, different style) flights of three or more.
Tequila is a very interesting spirit. There are three distinct variations: blanco (pure agave clear, unaged), reposado (mellow, golden, barrel-aged up to a year) and añejo (smooth, amber, complex with one year-plus in barrel). As with wine or single malts, the more you taste, the greater appreciation you can develop. Vuelo's flights are a great way to work on that continuing education your parents are always bugging you about. "Hi, Mom… you'll never guess what I'm studying now."
When it's time for el postre, you've got ice cream, churros and plantains Foster. We give in to the temptation of Vuelo pudding. It's stacked like a trifle in a glass jar, which layers cajeta (think dulce de leche) caramel-sea salt pudding on a base of crushed vanilla cookies, topping it with sweet whipped cream. The dessert is a delight; dig your spoon into the bottom and get three layers in one bite.
The absolutely huge chocolate layer cake leans to one side of the plate like a sinking ship held up by an iceberg of vanilla ice cream drizzled with chocolate sauce. The dense, moist cake is strewn with nuggets of Mexican chocolate toffee that provide a spicy kick and welcome crunch. If you love mole sauce, this one's for you.
Our circuitous journey along Bruce B. Downs Boulevard ends with a sweet twinkle in my friends' eyes and a big smile on my face.
Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.
This article appears in Dec 15-22, 2016.
