Best Of 2007

BEST CULINARY RESURRECTION: Malio’s Prime

The place just isn’t the same. Everything is now new and shiny, with none of the hard-won character of the old joint. And expensive, phew! The original Malio’s $9.95 chicken parm that used to satisfy — with leftovers for lunch the next day — has been replaced by steaks that require a credit check. And Malio Iavarone, the man himself, just isn’t around as much as he used to be. But we’re still happy to have Malio’s back, high-end menu, glitzy décor and all. After all, those steaks are damn fine. Malio’s son Derek and partner Jason Fernandez just need a few years to generate some of that classic Iavarone charm.