BEST NEW PIZZA: Alessi Bakery

Early this year, Alessi squeezed in a fancy brick oven and started selling “New Haven” pizza to accompany the big slabs of doughy pan pie that have been the bakery’s longstanding favorite. The crust is thin and crisp; the sauce is perfectly balanced; the cheese is fortified with pecorino; and you can chase the pie with a log of banana bread. Forget about history; sometimes change is good.