BEST VEGETARIAN DISH AT A PLACE THAT SERVES DEEP-FRIED BACON: Vegetable pie at 3 Birds Tavern

Created by noted pork aficionado and gadfly chef Domenica Macchia, Three Birds’ vegetable pie is a rich stew of squash and peppers, with a sizable dollop of creamy mashed potatoes in the center. It is a truly satisfying dish, heavy but lightened by a powerful dose of black pepper — almost as good as Macchia’s deep-fried sugary bacon. 1492 Fourth St. N, St. Petersburg, 727-895-2049, threebirdstavern.com.