Dessert wizard Evan Schmidt delivers a deconstructed tiramisu that arrives at the table looking like a huge ostrich egg nestled in espresso and chocolate gravel, decorated by two long chocolate spears. The “egg” is a Mascarpone mousse filled with espresso-soaked ladyfingers. Fortunately, it’s not a gimmick; every element is expertly executed. It’s tiramisu for the avant-garde, and truly delicious.