Best Of 2014

Best Transformations Since Eliza Doolittle: Tuna "Fish & Chips" and Hanger Steak at Élevage

Best Transformations Since Eliza Doolittle

The thrilling “fish and chips” starter at Élevage belies its name, as battered cod and French fries are nowhere to be found. Instead, a square slab of slate is used as a canvas for brushstrokes of ranch tartar sauce topped with a few small squares of seared sushi grade tuna, each piece of luscious fish accompanied by a sliver of tiny fried pickle, a few diminutive crisp potato chips, some micro greens and a lighter-than-air ball of suspended malt vinegar. The restaurant’s hanger steak gets an equally unforgettable transformation: fork tender, this humble cut can pretend to be chateaubriand as it surrounds a long marrow bone, split lengthwise, with gorgeous chunks of rare beef swimming in a heady hickory-smoked bordelaise sauce. And the ubiquitous steak house creamed spinach ends up as croquettes. Brilliant.