There are no foams and few modernist tricks — just imaginative ingredients in perfect combinations to make you weak in the knees. The ever-changing menu is not about quantity, but rather freshness, balance and finesse. As I reflect on my visits to The Restorative — heavenly potato agnolotti, fork-tender squares of pork cheek with pickled plums, revelatory onion soup, and a deliciously creative (and healthy) brunch — I can’t help but salivate. From the one-of-a-kind homemade sodas to dishes that silence my companions and bring them to tears, I’ve run out of superlatives. Just go. The Dunedin restaurant’s monthly wine dinner is especially divine. —Jon Palmer Claridge