Best Of 2017

Best Real Taste of Asia Without Traveling: Buya Ramen

Best Real Taste of Asia Without Traveling

The tapas-style izakaya plates here are sublime; steamed buns (or hirata) are extraordinarily cloud-like. Plus, ultra-rich tonkotsu broth is a rare, 22-hour labor of love that can't be hurried, and the result is a hedonistic rush. But so is the seafood ramen’s miso-based stock, fragrant with lemongrass and yuzu. Buya’s sense of gastronomic grace reflects the best that Asia has to offer. —Jon Palmer Claridge