If you’ve never experienced the serendipity of wandering into a real Italian trattoria to be spoiled by the enthusiasm and generosity of la dolce vita, the sweet life, Acqua Alta is that adventure. Transplanted Venetians Leonardo and Rimma Castaldi and pescetarian chef Paolo Polo (yes, as in Marco) bring their magic to the corner of McMullen Booth and Enterprise roads. This is not Nonna’s red-sauce cuisine. —Jon Palmer Claridge