Bob Heilman’s Beachcomber is a mainstay on Clearwater Beach, and every time I go there I’m reminded I want to go there more. It’s simply an elegant, sophisticated restaurant — old-school, but not in a Bern’s kind of way — more of a Rat-Pack-meets-artsy-beach-high-end-restaurant kind of way. Two things stand out in particular: the relish tray, which comes before the meal (do not dismiss this), and the simple richness of the food. —Cathy Salustri