Even great chefs can be one-trick ponies. They are usually either enamored of haute cuisine, with its complicated techniques and demanding multifaceted preparations, or they champion simplicity, embracing comfort foods, worshiping ingredients and looking for straightforward recipes that allow single elements to shine. Chef Christopher Artrip stands astride both worlds like a colossus driven by flavor. From foie gras and demi-glace (The Black Pearl) to mac ‘n’ cheese and smoked wings (Iron Oak New American BBQ), he elevates his dishes without grandstanding. Instead of seeking personal celebrity, he humbly submits his food for coronation. Impeccable technique and attention to detail, luckily for us, make for delectable food whether you choose upscale or down-home. Black Pearl: 315 Main St., Dunedin. 727-734-3463, theblackpearldunedin.com. Iron Oak: 917 11th St., Palm Harbor. 727-754-7337, ironoakbbq.com. —JPC
Eastern minimalist Asian desserts are usually too simple and underwhelming for a Western culinary sensibility. Happily, Pin Wok & Bowl’s choice to combine Banana Coins with coconut ice cream is an inspired mashup. Slices of banana are wrapped in little phyllo packets, fried till crisp and golden, then drizzled with honey and topped with a light sprinkle of white-and-black sesame seeds. House-made coconut ice cream is creamily scrumptious, drizzled with lightly caramelized condensed milk and paired with some fresh whipped cream. I urge you to try them together as we did by serendipity. It’s a match made in heaven, or at least downtown St. Pete’s version of Bangkok. 445 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. 727-575-7167. —Jon Palmer Claridge
Thuy Le’s kitchen produces nuanced plates are often revelatory, and same goes for the edamame appetizer. I don’t know about you, but I’ve had plenty of these soybean pods over the years — and they’re mostly the same: steamed, sprinkled with salt and pleasant, yet notmemorable. Asie’s version knocks me on my ass. They’re simply superlative. The spicy pods are slightly charred and in a viscous soy-garlic sauce that’s as surprising as it is delicious. As if that weren’t enough, they’re garnished with tiny bits of crispy pork belly. Don’t miss ’em. 437 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. 727-898-4300, asiepanasian.com. —JPC