This quartet of seared scallops is a revelation. Caramelized to a deep brown but not the slightest bit rubbery, they sit on a bed of luscious sweet potato-brown butter sauce, alongside small crisps of benne seeds and soft braised fennel. The opposite side of the dish is decorated with squares from tiny, sweet dots of pomegranate and mulled cider syrup to be used to taste. It’s a wonderful dish bursting with the Southern inspiration chef Nathan Hardin has set as his goal. The mashup is magical — like the first glimpse of fireflies that hint of summer. Armature Works, 1902 N. Ola Ave., Tampa. 813-693-5478, steelbach.com. —Jon Palmer Claridge
Eastern minimalist Asian desserts are usually too simple and underwhelming for a Western culinary sensibility. Happily, Pin Wok & Bowl’s choice to combine Banana Coins with coconut ice cream is an inspired mashup. Slices of banana are wrapped in little phyllo packets, fried till crisp and golden, then drizzled with honey and topped with a light sprinkle of white-and-black sesame seeds. House-made coconut ice cream is creamily scrumptious, drizzled with lightly caramelized condensed milk and paired with some fresh whipped cream. I urge you to try them together as we did by serendipity. It’s a match made in heaven, or at least downtown St. Pete’s version of Bangkok. 445 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. 727-575-7167. —Jon Palmer Claridge
Thuy Le’s kitchen produces nuanced plates are often revelatory, and same goes for the edamame appetizer. I don’t know about you, but I’ve had plenty of these soybean pods over the years — and they’re mostly the same: steamed, sprinkled with salt and pleasant, yet notmemorable. Asie’s version knocks me on my ass. They’re simply superlative. The spicy pods are slightly charred and in a viscous soy-garlic sauce that’s as surprising as it is delicious. As if that weren’t enough, they’re garnished with tiny bits of crispy pork belly. Don’t miss ’em. 437 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. 727-898-4300, asiepanasian.com. —JPC