In a spare yet welcoming, no-frills, 18-seat space, the newly married chef duo of Erin “Cricket” and Jason Borajkiewicz continues to create magic with an ever-changing menu that seldom tops a dozen plates. When the food is, in a word, poetic, who needs white linen? Although the lineup changes roughly twice a week, the carefully composed dishes always look too good to eat — wondrous kaleidoscopes of color and texture. The flavors, however, explode on your palate in combinations that surprise or amaze. Go with friends, as a four-top can share the whole menu. Ask for half pours of wine, so you can sample a quartet of vino to match your food without breaking the bank. 420 Patricia Ave., Dunedin. restorativerestaurant.com. —Jon Palmer Claridge
Eastern minimalist Asian desserts are usually too simple and underwhelming for a Western culinary sensibility. Happily, Pin Wok & Bowl’s choice to combine Banana Coins with coconut ice cream is an inspired mashup. Slices of banana are wrapped in little phyllo packets, fried till crisp and golden, then drizzled with honey and topped with a light sprinkle of white-and-black sesame seeds. House-made coconut ice cream is creamily scrumptious, drizzled with lightly caramelized condensed milk and paired with some fresh whipped cream. I urge you to try them together as we did by serendipity. It’s a match made in heaven, or at least downtown St. Pete’s version of Bangkok. 445 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. 727-575-7167. —Jon Palmer Claridge
Thuy Le’s kitchen produces nuanced plates are often revelatory, and same goes for the edamame appetizer. I don’t know about you, but I’ve had plenty of these soybean pods over the years — and they’re mostly the same: steamed, sprinkled with salt and pleasant, yet notmemorable. Asie’s version knocks me on my ass. They’re simply superlative. The spicy pods are slightly charred and in a viscous soy-garlic sauce that’s as surprising as it is delicious. As if that weren’t enough, they’re garnished with tiny bits of crispy pork belly. Don’t miss ’em. 437 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. 727-898-4300, asiepanasian.com. —JPC