I should start by saying that the move around the corner to Gulfport's main drag hasn't changed Peg's Pizza Cantina. It's bigger now but only because of a quaint cobbled courtyard that stretches from the converted bungalow down to a white picket fence fronting Beach Boulevard. Inside, the former quilt shop is almost as tight and cozy as Peg's previous digs in an aged strip mall on 22nd Avenue.
For some joints, especially places that have built a cult following thanks to personal and informal service, bigger wouldn't necessarily be better: It's difficult to chat up a crowd. At Peg's, though, nothing was broken in the move.
Like the vibe, the food hasn't changed. That's one of Peg's secrets: The food isn't meant to impress. The small menu features pizzas — thin crust and cut into squares in classic Midwestern style — and fresh, Cali-Mex dishes. Although it's all tasty stuff, Peg's devotees don't crow about the food to their friends. They crow about the people. And the atmosphere. Altogether, it's a powerful package.
Even on one of Gulfport's busiest nights — the recent Holiday Arts Walk — the cozy conviviality of Peg's shines through the press of humanity. Locals and visitors pack the streets, swaying to musical acts, cruising craft booths and stomping through faux snow thrown into the air by a machine down near the casino. Restaurants are packed. Ten minutes after putting in our names at Peg's, we're seated in plastic chairs, perusing the extensive beer menu.
Peg Wesselink is, of course, the face of the place — even though she has less restaurant experience than the rest of the crew, and that's not saying much. Her husband — and fellow political science Ph.D — Tony Dodson picked up some Mexican cuisine chops while Peg was doing research south of the border. Her son Doug Dozark worked at a pizza joint in Iowa. When the restaurant opened last year, it was with amateur enthusiasm.
In the old space, you could sit at the tiny bar and watch Doug sling dough and Tony toss veggies and sauces on an ancient stove in an ill-equipped kitchen that looked like it would be more at home in a tiny apartment. At the new location, you can still witness the process and kibbitz, although the kitchen set-up is much better suited to a professional restaurant.
Professional or no, the menu is enchantingly simple. You can — and should — start with crisp tortilla chips and a tangy tomato salsa that's refreshing and mild enough for the most ardent spice-o-phobes. Or you can ratchet it up with a rich and creamy chipotle salsa that packs a big punch ($4.25). Both are best when mixed together on a single chip — freshness and heat mingling with each bite — or paired with Peg's luscious guacamole ($6.25).
There are quesadillas ($9.25) — griddled 'til the tortillas are crisp and the cheese is gooey — but burritos ($11.25) make up the bulk of the entrées. You can choose to stuff Peg's elastic flour tortillas with hunks of pork or chicken; both are stewed long and slow, but the chicken beats out the pork in both flavor and texture. For mild, that tomato salsa is packed in with beans, cheese and sour cream. For spicy, you get refried beans, peppery green salsa and more of that chipotle-laced salsa for extra heat.
Peg's best burrito is filled to overflowing with plump shrimp cooked perfectly and just enough fixins to accent the prodigious amount of shellfish ($15.25). Tacos come with hunks of steamed fish, cabbage, finely diced veggies and a shmear of seasoned sour cream ($15). I can see why both have fanatical devotees.
Pizzas ($7.25 and up) are more of an acquired taste, the cracker-like crust and slightly sweet tomato sauce reminiscent of the Midwestern pies of my youth. They are small enough that one person can easily down a whole one, especially if it's topped by the same fresh veggies that go into Peg's Mex food.
But, like I said, the food's more of an excuse to show up and hang at Peg's than the main draw. The night of that Holiday Art Walk, no matter how bustling the restaurant or how many names were on the waiting list, servers would stop by the table to chat. When we felt like rushing, in order to concede to the next people in line, they encouraged us to sit back and relax.
No worries, everyone's taken care of at Peg's.
This article appears in Dec 19-25, 2007.