I'm rarely speechless, except when people ask, "What's your favorite restaurant?" How can I rifle through my memory, a mosaic made up of thousands of marvelous meals eaten at places all over the map, and pick one restaurant? It's impossible. But if someone would ask me, "What's your favorite kind of restaurant?" I could answer instantly. My restaurant of choice is a good neighborhood bistro.
Bistro is a word that was much overused in that defunct decade known as the '90s. I knew I'd heard its death knell as a functional label when I saw one of the worst restaurants I'd ever eaten at, a place so bad even the cockroaches were dying of food poisoning, replace the "Cafe" in its name with "Bistro." But I use the word now in its original European sense. A bistro's raison d'etre is to give the locals a place to come, often several times a week, to sit with a glass of wine, chat with the neighbors, hear a local musician and enjoy affordable, home-cooked meals. Let me clarify: that's "home-cooked meals" in the French sense, as in cassoulet or coq au vin, not in the American sense, as in Hamburger Helper.
There are no bistros in my neighborhood. If, in the quiet of the evening after a hard day, my man and I join hands and stroll down to the corner, all we will find to dine on is Slim Jims and Super Gulps. Perhaps that's why I'm so charmed by true bistros, like The Green Springs Cafe & Gathering Place in Safety Harbor. It's the embodiment of the charming cafe I long for in my own neighborhood.
Green Springs Cafe opened recently, just off the quiet Main Street of Safety Harbor, in an old wooden house that's as cozy as a bird's nest. A tiny outside porch is draped with swags of white holiday lights, illuminating the local musicians who play there. A brick patio with two or three tables is inviting on a cool spring night. As I climb the three concrete steps to the front door, I see someone has written "joy" on them, in rainbow colored chalks. When I leave, "joy" has faded away, and been replaced, most aptly, by "pleasure."
Inside, hardwood floors gleam in the soft light of dusk, just enough light to see the vibrant silk scarves draped over a pole, the exotic jewelry filling a tiny glass cabinet, and the whimsically hand-painted tables and chairs, each one unique. Everything that meets the eye is a celebration of the joyful spirit of local artists. That spirit of joyful creation tumbles over onto the menu as well. Green Springs is the creation of Kris Kubik and her husband Paul Kapsalis, a CIA trained chef (that's Culinary Institute of America, not Central Intelligence Agency). Working in the most rudimentary kitchen, he draws on his family as well as his culinary background to create his dishes. The menu, a short selection of appetizers and entrees, offers limited choices but unlimited pleasure.
Start with saganaki to savor an authentic Greek treat rarely found outside the deepest reaches of Tarpon Springs. A large slice of briny kefalograveria cheese is heated till it's molten, splashed with olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon and brought to your table, spitting and sizzling, to smear on chunks of brown bread ($6.25). Or go for Harold's 'shroom, a flavorful dish of portobello mushroom roasted with red peppers, fresh oregano, calamata olives, garlic and goat cheese ($7.75).
Main courses change frequently, but at the moment you can choose among seven deeply delicious dishes, like spicy shrimp and scallops, pan-seared, plated with spinach and sun-dried tomato ravioli, than swathed with a spicy garlic tomato sauce ($16). Or try vegetarian lasagna layered with spinach, roasted portobellos and imported feta cheese and served with a roasted tomato sauce ($12.75).
My favorite dishes on the current menu are the salmon and lobster sack, and the lamb "porterhouses." In a method called "en papillote," a paper sack is layered with thick slices of white potato, a large filet of fresh, firm Pacific salmon, asparagus and spinach, all bathed in a luscious lobster sauce ($16.75). Lamb "porterhouses" is a generous portion of rich, tender lamb, pan-roasted with an aromatic port wine reduction and served with wilted greens ($18.75). This rates "yum!"
Equally good choices are the roasted, de-boned chicken stuffed with a savory sausage dressing and served with a citrus mustard cream sauce ($15.25) and the big bowl of rustic, spicy gumbo, made with a deep, dark roux and loaded with chunks of juicy chicken, spicy andouille sausage and rough-cut vegetables like okra, all ladled over a big bowl of rice and served with crusty bread. It's a flavorful, filling meal for $11.25.
The brief wine list won't win any awards from the Wine Examiner, but normal folk will do just fine with the few well-chosen bottles (from $14 to $35) or with a pitcher of zesty homemade sangria ($10.50) to share around the table. Desserts are also worth sharing — if only so you can taste them all. Don't light a match, or the 1000-proof rum cake might prove deadly as well as delicious!
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With all the beautiful flora and fauna, beaches and parks in our area, it really comes as a surprise that there are relatively few places to eat en plein air. Part of it has to do with the stifling heat that afflicts us six months out of the year; the other culprit is the misguided legislation of shortsighted politicians (e.g., Tampa's ordinance against outdoor dining from the 1950s through '70s, supposedly for health reasons). But in the past decade, charming eateries with patios, decks, sidewalk seating and atria have sprung up all over the Bay area. The following is an overview of some of our favorite places to get tasty vittles and fresh air.
TAMPA
Cafe Creole, 1330 Ninth Ave. E., Ybor City, (813-247-6283). A comfortable distance from the hustle and bustle of Seventh Avenue, in the historic red-brick El Pasaje building, this New Orleans-style eatery offers quaint appeal and tasty Cajun fare with nice Continental touches. Oh, and when you're there, ask for Hassan, our favorite, five-star waiter. Recommended is the blackened salmon salad.
Jackson's Bistro and Sushi, 601 S. Harbour Island Blvd. (813-277-0112). Jackson's has become infamous for its happy-hour yuppie meat markets, but it's actually a pleasant place to take in the views of downtown Tampa and Old Tampa Bay. The sushi at Jackson's is tres fresh and affordable.
Rick's on the River, 2305 N. Willow Ave., Tampa (813-251-0369). Margaritaville cheese at its finest! Rick's restaurant, marina and hair salon (?!) overlooks the Hillsborough River and the lush greenery that lines it. We recommend the cheap American beer on tap, conch fritters or a grouper sandwich with a huge basket o' fries. Pine over the sad state of what used to be Hillsborough County's most beautiful natural resource amid the human comedy of bleach blond mullets and cover bands.
ST. PETERSBURG
The Garden, 217 Central Ave. (727-896-3800). Long established as one of downtown's favorite bistros, The Garden offers tasty Mediterranean fare — paellas, polentas, frittatas and pastas, and tajine, long-simmered Moroccan stew with complex flavors. Dine in the quaint brick patio with creeping vines and a big oak tree, and, on certain nights, laugh with The Unprofessionals improv comedy troupe, or take in the ultra-cool pure jazz of trombonist Buster Cooper and his trio.
Moon Under Water, 332 Beach Drive (727-896-6160). Down a Guinness and enjoy some good Brit-style food as you gaze at the best view of downtown St. Pete's waterfront — from the majestic Vinoy to the neoclassic Museum of Arts to The Pier and its fleet of sailboats. Moon Under Water has an extensive beer list and serves Indian curries, Middle Eastern dishes and, of course, fish and chips (but only at dinner Tuesday and Friday).
CLEARWATER BEACH
Palm Pavilion, 18 Bay Esplanade (727-446-2642). Whereas the majority of locals and sunset-gazers head to the Rockaway Grill next door, the simple white, wood-frame Palm Pavilion has enjoyed a steadily growing customer base without the long, cramped, loud waits one must endure at Rockaway. Try PP's blackened grouper burritos and pina coladas with whipped cream and coconut shavings. (Insert Homer Simpson groan here.)
SEMINOLE
Boulevard Bistro, 8595 Seminole Blvd (727-399-1800). In a sea of white hair and Oldsmobiles lies this culinary oasis that, yes, offers early bird specials, but the kind that'd make South Tampa yuppies salivate. Dine in BB's elegant stucco patio while enjoying the friendly atmosphere, well-prepared seafood (especially the grouper sandwich) and an incredible ahi tuna spring roll wrapped in puff pastry and served with a warm, spicy dipping sauce. The complimentary white bean garlic dip and crispy bread are to die for.
ST. PETE BEACH
The Sea Porch Cafe at the Don CeSar. 3400 Gulf Blvd. (727-360-1881 or 800-282-1116). Along with featuring the majestic "Pink Lady" hotel as its locale, this casual cafe features an open deck that overlooks whispery sea oats and one of the Gulf Coast's most expansive, sugary white beaches. Order drinks, and, if you're hungry, try one of the dinner pasta dishes served with the "fish of the day." They change daily, depending upon what the chef considers the freshest.
PALM HARBOR
The Thirsty Marlin, 1023 Florida Ave. (727-784-3469). Nestled amid draping oak trees and the quaint old buildings of Palm Harbor's historic "downtown" neighborhood sits one of the most professionally run, top-notch Floribbean restaurants in the Bay area. Features shady patios, delicious frozen drinks and an unusually extensive menu. Treat your vegetarian friends to a grilled portobello sandwich or try the Caribbean cracked conch sandwich. Very affordable prices; hell, if this place were in Ybor or on the beach, they'd be charging double what the stuff costs here. Note to owners: Please lose the blackface antique memorabilia in the lobby. Customers may lose their appetites upon viewing this display of poor taste.
SAFETY HARBOR
Green Springs Cafe and Gathering Place, 122 Third Ave. N. (727-669-6762). Safety Harbor may very well be Tampa Bay's prettiest town, with its rolling hills, bayside views, shady oaks and old wood-frame homes. Smack in the heart of the quaint town's even quainter downtown area is Green Springs. Housed in a restored 1920s house, this excellent eatery features ingenious, delicious fare, live music and friendly service. My vegan pal recommends the big salad, with fresh baby greens, artichoke hearts, mushrooms, Roma tomatoes, red onion and basil balsamic vinaigrette (non-vegans can opt for the garlic Parmesan dressing).
HONORABLE MENTIONS
Bella's, Le Bordeaux, Ciccio and Tony's and Taqueria Quetzalqoatl, all on Howard Avenue in the Hyde Park area, have small outdoor patios and great food. If you're in the mood for cheap, healthy Mexican fare, go to Taqueria. If Italian is your thing, both Bella's and Ciccio and Tony's offer creative twists on food from the boot; Bella's has specialty wood-fired pizzas and Ciccio and Tony's is known for great wraps. Le Bordeaux offers top-notch French food in an intimate setting.
Tampa Bay Brewing Company on 15th Street in Ybor City has some of the best food you'll find anywhere — beef, pizzas, vegetarian fare, robust salads — but only a small upstairs balcony for fresh-air dining. Skipper's Smokehouse, way up in North Tampa on Skipper Road and Nebraska Avenue, features gator tail, Southern and Cuban-style fare, with the added bonus of a sandy deck under a ceiling of stars that regulars call "The Skipperdome," where national and local acts perform live music.
Downtown Dunedin has long been known for its quaint eateries with limited-but-nice outdoor seating: Kelly's … for Just About Anything, Sea Sea Riders and Cafe Alfresco. All feature quality, contemporary Continental/Floribbean dining.
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This article appears in Jun 5-11, 2002.