Don't get the wrong impression about Twisted Cork. Despite the name, and the corkscrew logo the restaurant uses on the menus and signage, the place isn't about wine. Take one look at the wee printed pyramids on the tables that list the beer and wine options, and that will become abundantly clear. Mondavi is the high-brow vino at Twisted Cork, and beer selections are limited to a handful of typical macro-brews and a short list of "imports" that includes domestic favorites Sam Adams and Sierra Nevada.
That selection fits the setting, for sure. Despite a menu that features updated sports bar and Southern-cooking comfort food, and flirts with fine-dining concoctions, Twisted Cork is in a decidedly downscale area on U.S. 19, tucked into the front of the aged, few-room Candlelight Motel. That's no commentary on the restaurant's food, however — especially the bar food — which is good enough to transcend the environment.
What Twisted Cork should be using as a logo is a bowl of french fries. That's the restaurant's real specialty.
This article appears in Jul 29 – Aug 4, 2010.