Tampa has seen a couple of cupcake bakeries pop up in the last couple of years, so I set out to compare their products; specifically, the simplest of all these sweets: a vanilla cupcake.
In Westchase, there are now two places that offer cupcakes. When Swirls on Race Track Road first opened, they had multiple cupcake flavors as well as several other baked goods. Currently, they seem to be concentrating more on gelato, coffees and a few lunch items. Good thing, because the cupcakes were awful. The cake was dry and oddly solid, as if previously frozen, and the frosting was greasy and flavorless. Thankfully, their gourmet gelato, including unique flavors like Guinness and avocado, are worth the visit.
On Linebaugh is Cupcake! Cupcakes, a cupcake specialist. The vanilla cupcake was fine, an acceptable option if you need to stay in that geographical area. The cake was slightly dry and unobjectionable; the frosting was better, sweet and creamy. I am still perplexed by the fact that their higher priced "gourmet" flavors are unattractive —- like something I could have made at home in a half hour — compared to the "standard" flavors.
Lastly, I headed to South Tampa for the jewel of our cupcake bakeries. But there was a bonus treat to try first: While having lunch at Pane Rustica I discovered that they offer large and mini-cupcakes. Now I am of the philosophy that one should take a complete bite from a cupcake, top to bottom, even if it means getting frosting on your nose. Tough, when faced with a Pane Rustica cupcake almost as big as my head. The cake was not too moist or sweet, almost biscuit-like. The frosting was very good and there was a ton of it.
Finally, my favorite: The Cupcake Spot. They now have business hours on Sunday — joy! A variety of flavors and some innovative combos make them a standout. The vanilla cake was perfectly moist with the right amount of flavor. The frosting is both creamy and rich and very sweet; it conjures images and emotions of childhood.
This article appears in Aug 19-25, 2009.