When I began eating red meat again after a 10-year hiatus, the satisfaction was immediate. I ordered a dry-aged, grilled filet topped with seared foie gras and a cabernet-truffle sauce at Harris’ Steakhouse in San Francisco’s Pacific Heights. All I remember from that epic first bite is taking in the rush of rich flavor, leaning my head back with closed eyes, and falling deeply in love.

Since then I’ve only been brave enough to buy and prepare filet mignon at home on one occasion. I’m afraid that the bar is just too high, and so I leave it to the experts and opt instead for a selection that is more home-cook friendly.

Also known as bavette to the French, flank steak