The Skinny Rooster makes its perch on a newly comfortable stretch of Clearwater/Largo Road that has substituted bistros, bakeries and Birkenstock retailers for old trailer homes and empty storefronts. Anchored by the old favorite Grillmarks, the block has blossomed into a lovely little area, and The Skinny Rooster fits right in. It's a picture-perfect eatery for both "ladies who lunch" and folks of any gender who wished they had the leisure to do so. Set amongst gorgeous surroundings, it's as elegant as it is affordable, and aside from a few missteps, this is one Rooster that has something to crow about.
Inside, the restaurant is rather nondescript, but the outdoor seating area makes the most of its surroundings. The building is adjacent to a picturesque pond, complete with ducks, dragonflies, adolescent cypress trees and weeping willows. The Skinny Rooster's shady dining deck stays cool even during the midday heat with the aid of a few industrial-strength misting fans. I usually balk at the idea of outdoor lunches during the sizzling summer months, but at The Skinny Rooster, the ambience is downright balmy.
Both breakfast and lunch dishes are available all day, and the extensive menu reflects a diversity of options, from crepes to salads to a dozen different omelets. Said omelets are sinfully enormous and priced from $5.25 (for a three-cheese stuffed omelet) to $7.95 (for the crab, shrimp and asparagus in béarnaise "Oscar" omelet). Each mountain of egg is served with a side of roasted red potatoes graced with onions and red bell peppers and the diner's choice of bread. We sampled another breakfast option, the creme brulee French toast ($6.75). Crunchy on the outside with a custard-like center, a single bite was pure heaven. Unfortunately, a few more bites sent us all into abject sugar-shock. We never even doused this dish with the provided pitcher of warm maple syrup — it was already too sweet. For the incurable sugar addict only.
Bridging the gap between breakfast and lunch, The Skinny Rooster's crepe offerings encompass mostly sweet fillings within their delectably fluffy wraps. In fact, the fabulous $6.25 bananas foster crepe was practically worthy of dessert, but there was one option that hinted at the savory side. Unfortunately, our "crabalific crepe" ($7.25) was a bit of a letdown. Despite our server's assurances that the filling was real crab, its texture left something to be desired. At the very least, the crabmeat had been processed to the point of being unrecognizable, and the sweetened cream cheese that made up the rest of the filling masked whatever crab flavor lingered. The crepe proper was as airy and appetizing as ever, but the rest of the dish didn't quite make the grade.
Much better was the gigantic island chicken salad ($7.25), which featured tasty marinated chicken on a bed of greens spotted with bits of mango, shreds of coconut, sesame seeds and strawberries. The tropical vinaigrette dressing, like most of the menu items, was a sweet affair, but this one possessed enough of a tangy bite to set the salad at advantage. And though tasty, the dressing could be applied with a lighter hand, for when we reached the bottom of our generous bowl we found a pool of vinaigrette deep enough to drown in.
The Rooster also has a nice selection of sandwiches. My favorite is the "secret recipe" chicken salad ($6.75) on a croissant with a side of seasoned, waffle-cut fries. The creamy chicken salad borrows a bit of crunch from celery and sesame, and the toasted croissant was fresh and fluffy.
A daily special quiche ($6.95) didn't fare as well, for it was so brown that my dining companion first mistook it for caramelized French toast. However, the restaurant redeemed itself with another daily special, a scrumptious "mojo" (i.e., Caribbean) spiced chicken quesadilla ($7.50) with jack cheese, peppers, caramelized onions and a paprika cream sauce.
Dessert is almost a moot point with so many sweet treats on the menu, and though beverages are limited to a standard selection of soft drinks and tea, their unsweetened iced tea has a tropical fruit tinge that makes for a refreshing pond-side drink. Service is superb and in keeping with the casual, yet truly charming setting. In fact, the only flaw was the occasionally uneven quality of the dishes. In some cases (the quiche), I attribute the problems to an off day. In others (the crab crepe) I believe the recipe needs to be revisited. But a few flaws do not overshadow The Skinny Rooster's overall merit. A spot of revision and this restaurant is well placed to rule the roost.
Freelance writer Diana Peterfreund dines anonymously and the Planet pays for her meals. She may be contacted at diana.peterfreund@weeklyplanet.com. Restaurants are chosen for review at the discretion of the writer, and are not related to advertising.
This article appears in Sep 8-14, 2004.