The first time I reviewed the Blue Gardenia, Tom and Emily Golden were in the early stages of turning a storefront in a Safety Harbor strip mall into a neighborhood bistro. It was their first venture into self-employment (i.e., see Webster's definition of "masochism.") and their energy and enthusiasm carried them well past the limitations of broken down appliances and a kitchen the size of a shoebox. The Blue Gardenia soon established itself as one of the finest bistros on the Pinellas side. Even back then, it seemed inevitable that one day Tom and Emily would move back across the bridge to their home turf in Tampa. Some months ago, they did just that, repotting the Blue Gardenia in the space vacated by Ibex Ethiopian restaurant. In this new, richer turf, the Blue Gardenia has grown and matured, blossoming into a better-defined version of its seedling self. The new location is larger, with an accommodating bar, so there's no more huddling on the sidewalk, waiting for a table. Rough walls have been repainted a warm ochre, and display an ever-changing show of original and engaging artwork. The atmosphere is still casual and welcoming, but in service and food, there's a crisper, more professional edge.
Try the delicious double-lobe duck breast, dusted with a spicy rub, then seared, cut into a fan and spread over a mound of ginger-scented, mashed sweet potatoes. A rosemary-orange-balsamic reduction is drizzled over all ($17). It's an improved version of the dish I tasted in Safety Harbor, with more distinctive and balanced flavors.
Newer dishes include a whimsical appetizer of lobster Popsicles, four slipper lobster tails, skewered on wooden sticks, coated with a Cajun-spiced batter, fried and served with a pool of hoisin Pick-A-Peppa sauce ($7.50). It makes a tasty bit of fun to share around the table while you study menu entrees that include a delicious Delmonico steak in an orange-maple-mustard marinade, given a good crust on the grill and served with garlic-basil smashed potatoes and crisp green beans seasoned with bacon and balsamic ($18.50). Or try an imaginative presentation of seared yellow fin tuna balanced atop a Tater Tot-like patty (about 4 inches in diameter) of Maine lobster coated with Japanese breadcrumbs and drizzled with peppercorn-ginger-carrot butter ($19). Yum.
The wine list is nicely developed, with many fine selections by the glass, and sophisticated touches like champagne served with Bonny Doon framboise and Penfolds "Grandfather" tawny port. Try the 1997 Montera Syrah for deep, rich flavors that complement either the duck or Delmonico.
Over in St. Petersburg, I revisited Grand Finale, which stands as the single outpost of fine dining around the Dome, and with chef John B. Shields newly installed in the kitchen, it is exceptionally fine dining indeed. Like the Blue Gardenia, Grand Finale uses the work of local artists as eye candy in a casually sophisticated setting. And also like Blue Gardenia, Grand Finale has matured in terms of more polished service and a better wine list. It's also the only place in St. Petersburg that offers actual "cuisine" until 1:00 a.m., allowing St. Petersburgers the option of fine dining after the play or concert. But the big news is in the kitchen, where chef Shields is well on his way to developing one of the best menus in the city. The chef, who is surely among the ranks of Tampa Bay's most talented, honors Grand Finale's tradition of flirting with Asian ingredients, but adds a soupçon of French sophistication with additions like foie gras emulsions and truffle butters.
The best dish I've tried to date is a fresh salmon filet poached in olive oil, set atop a mound of fragrant jasmine rice, circled with a mildly sweet and sour salad of beet greens, sprouts and cucumber slices in a basil horseradish sauce, then topped with roasted yellow peppers and a drizzle of unagi reduction. (Unagi is the savory sauce most often used to top grilled eel in sushi bars.) The succulence of the fish and the exciting contrast of textures coupled with a flourish of flavors as carefully balanced as a ballerina en point make this dish outstanding ($15).
My second choice was a sweet, fresh filet of wahoo, thinly crusted with ground macadamia, topped with a sprinkle of rare Oestra caviar and drizzled with an almost caramel-like vanilla bean vinaigrette ($19). This was set atop a mound of sweet, black Thai rice with a surprising addition of blueberries. It's an altogether delicious and innovative meal. Grand Finale is one of the premier reasons to put downtown St. Pete on your list of dining destinations.
This article appears in Mar 14-20, 2001.