You know you're in for an interesting charity dinner when the host begins the proceedings with the question: "What better way to start dinner than with a shot of tequila?" Richard Gonzmart, fourth-generation owner and president of the Columbia Restaurant, is an expert at mixing work, play and charity. The spirits came from Gonzmart's own brand of tequila, named "Screaming Richard" — a photograph of Richard running with the bulls in Pamplona graces the label.
It seemed like a ballsy move to kick off a fancy wine dinner with a shot of tequila, but Gonzmart knew what he was doing. The chilled tequila is very smooth and went down surprisingly easy. After everyone downed their shots, a ripple of giggling and conversation passed through the room. Just like that, the ice was broken and the dinner began.
Gonzmart recently held wine and spirits dinners to benefit the Humane Society, animal cancer research at the University of Florida, USF's athletic program and USF's Columbia Centennial Scholarship. The Columbia's new wines and spirits were featured and all sales benefited charity.
Gonzmart created several private label "RG" wines, produced by Argentine winery O.Fournier. The RG Sauvignon Blanc was floral and well balanced, my favorite white of the evening. "Rusty" is a mellow red blend with a label depicting Gonzmart and his beloved German Shepherd.
After dinner, Gonzmart offered the wines for sale at a discount, further boosting the revenues earned for the charities. Late in the meal, Gonzmart impulsively offered a bottle of his tequila with every sale, and the guests impulsively bought more. At night's end, everyone left with the buzz that only great food, wine and righteous causes provide. I also left with a haul of discounted tequila and wine.
Since that night, I have become aware of the Columbia's other spirits, Don Casimiro Classic Silver Rum and Chacho Bourbon Whiskey. Produced by Terressentia in Charleston, S.C., the spirits are now featured at all of the Columbia's locations.
The restaurant's new margarita, "Sandia," is tinged with fresh watermelon juice, and the smooth "Screaming Richard" tequila almost disappears into the drink. The "Floridita" Daiquiri is a tart mix of the Don Casimiro rum, lime juice and grapefruit juice in a sugar-rimmed glass. Of course, the new rum graces all of the mojitos and Daiquiris.
The tequila is a revelation, but the Chacho Bourbon — named after Evelio "Chacho" Hernandez, the youngest son of Casimiro Hernandez Sr., founding father of The Columbia — impressed me most. At 120 proof, it is strong and assertive. Their mint julep is served in a pewter cup, which chills the hand and lips but keeps the drink very cold and encourages moderation. The Columbia's new Manhattan comes on strong, but leaves behind the sweet, fruity notes of guava syrup.
The prices of the spirits are as pleasantly surprising as the taste. All are available at the Columbia's gift shops in one-liter bottles, one-third larger than the typical fifth, or 750-milliliter size. The Casimiro rum is $18, the Screaming Richard tequila is $22, and Chacho Bourbon is $36.
Gonzmart and Terressentia may be on to something here. I'm already running low on Chacho.
Tampa Bay area Columbia Restaurant locations: 2117 E. Seventh Ave., Tampa, 813-248-4961; 800 2nd Ave. N.E. (on the fourth floor of the Pier), St. Pete, 727-822-8000; 1241 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater, 727-596-8400, columbiarestaurant.com.
This article appears in Nov 17-23, 2011.