This isn't a recipe, per se. Think of it more as a suggestion.
Over the past couple of years, burger palaces across the country have attemtped — mad-scientist fashion — to max the caloric potential of meat and bun. Some make their portions bigger, creating prodigious piles of beef and toppings that challenge even the most stalwart burger fan.
Others are more subtle, changing the fundamentals without altering size. One of the most popular results of this tinkering is the Krispy Kreme burger, made famous almost simultaneously by burger joints across the Southeast. It's a simple formula — just replace each half of the bun with a single, tender, sweet, Krispy Kreme donut.
I've had one of these and there is joy in the mingling of bloody juices, salty bacon, melted cheese and crackling sweet glaze. But there are also problems. Within seconds, the structural integrity of the donut is inevitably threatened by the weight and liquidity of patty and toppings, until the whole glorious construction falls apart in your hands.
That's why I prefer a different style of donut burger, with a thinner patty and fewer toppings. Here's the "recipe".
Donut Burger
1/4 lb ground beef (80% lean works best)
salt and pepper
2 slices thick-cut bacon
mayo
1 thick, glazed, yeast-raised donut
1. Form a thin, loose burger and season generously with salt and pepper. Slice the donut in half (like a bagel). Fry the bacon.
2. Heat a skillet on high. When the skillet is hot, toast the donut briefly — cut side down — until golden. Cook the burger until crusty on both sides, not more than a couple of minutes per. You want good crunch, but don't let it dry out.
3. Slap some mayo on one half of the donut, add burger and bacon. Eat.
Notes:
I avoid other toppings, but if you want a stacked burger, here are some suggestions:
Cheese — Mild melters like fontina or gruyere work great, but the sweetness in the donut also makes gorgonzola a good choice.
Veggies — Lettuce adds a nice crunch, but tomatoes are too juicy. Pickles and donut is just too odd for me.
Condiments — The simplicity and mildness of mayo works best by far. Experiment with mustard and ketchup if you like. With the donut, I don't like.
This article appears in Sep 10-16, 2008.