Don't Shun the Chard

Rediscovering a disregarded grape.

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Chardonnays have gotten a bad rap. Chard hating runs rampant, with websites and blogs devoted to chard-bashing and new wine clubs called Anything But Chardonnay. And until recently, I secretly carried a membership card. The pervasiveness of crappy, boring Chardonnays has been undeniable, and with so many offerings that pretty much taste the same, why choose any?

But times they are a-changin'. California winemakers (and Australians and, of course, the French have been clued in for a while) no longer feel the pressure to butter their wine like toast, and deliver the one-two oak punch. Like, oh my God, I can taste the Chardonnay fruit for the first time in years. After tasting so many Chardonnays that I don't want to smell another for a while, I've assembled a motley crew of wines worth trying ... again.

Recommended Wines

Domaine Louis Moreau 2003 Chablis Not the jug wine you'll find mislabeled from California, this is the real French Chardonnay Chablis. Complex with streams of well-balanced flavors that woo you, like toffee, orange and cloves. Sophisticated and classy with a touch of acidity. Sweetness = 2. $21. 4.5 stars

Hangtime 2003 Chardonnay Edna Valley (California) Exceptionally tasty juice from the Southern California region. Fragrant pear and sweet red apple, with soft, creamy and perfectly balanced vanilla. Oh so good! Sw = 4. $16. 4.5 stars

Morgan 2004 Chardonnay Double L Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands (California) Silky and elegant, with loads of flavors coming at you: sweet honeysuckle, vanilla, walnuts sautéed in butter, cinnamon and honey. The delicious finish lasts forever. Sw = 3. $35. 4 stars

Trevor Jones 2004 Virgin Chardonnay (Australia) Lively, crisp and fun, like a talkative friend. Not a buttery, oaky flavor anywhere. Layers of fresh melon, sweet pineapple, ripe Golden Delicious apple, and tart lemon convince you that Australia is making some amazing Chardonnays. Sw = 2. $16. 4 stars

Bearboat 2003 Chardonnay Russian River Valley (California) Full-bodied, acidic and exuberant. It nips you with lemon-lime and grapefruit, but also tropical stuff like kiwi. Very cool wine. Sw = 2. $14. 4 stars

Monkey Bay 2004 Chardonnay (New Zealand) Flowery with tangy citrus and sweet sugar cookie dough flavors. Acidic enough to complement food. Great price for a wine of this quality. Sw = 2. $10. 3.5 stars

Joseph Drouhin 2003 Pouilly Fuissé Delicious, tastes like apricots dipped in yogurt. Creamy and dreamy with a refreshing, steely aftertaste. Sw = 2. $22. 3.5 stars

Simi 2003 Chardonnay Reserve Russian River Valley (California) OK and buttery with elegant butterscotch and bell pepper mixing together (nicely, I might add). Smooth and easy to drink. Sw = 3. $25. 3.5 stars

Blackstone 2004 Chardonnay Monterey (California) I rag on these guys all the time since their marketing is so damn intrusive that people feel forced to buy them. I still don't like their merlot, but this chardonnay is pretty good. It tastes like sweet Welch's grape juice with a squirt of grapefruit and tangerine. Sw = 3. $11. 3 stars

Guenoc 2003 Chardonnay (California) Graceful with ripe pear, peach and creamy vanilla pudding. It doesn't have a huge follow-through on the finish, but I still enjoyed this one. Sw = 2. $12. 3 stars

Smashed Grapes 2004 Chardonnay (California) A simple wine loaded with tangy lemon and lime and enough sharp acids to complement food. Sw = 2. $10. 2.5 stars

Kendall Jackson 2004 Chardonnay Vintner's Reserve (California) An unfortunate lackluster attempt from the ubiquitous KJ brand. Has some fruity lemon-lime, but it's overwhelmed by a watery, unripe green apple flavor. Sw = 3. $12. 2 stars

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