Last month, we established that claret is the British name for the wonderful wines from Bordeaux, and I attempted to demystify the 1855 classification of the finest wine “growths” around the region. Plus, we learned the Gironde left bank wines are cabernet blends, while on the right bank, merlot predominates.
This means the left bank wines that made the region famous tend to be higher in tannins, alcohol and acidity. As such, they are powerful, rich wines that usually age better than their merlot-based cousins — softer, less tannic bottles lower in acidity and alcohol. However, since merlot is the primary grape, they are juicier and ready to drink earlier, which also means they’re often less expensive.
Because of its popular appeal, the Bordeaux market offers wines meant to be consumed on release from smaller vintners around $20, with age-worthy Bordeaux by better producers starting at $30 and moving up rapidly. These wines are definitely worth your attention, though.
If you want to learn, you need to taste broadly. I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to get to know a wine merchant in your neighborhood. Not only will they learn your personal palate, but they’ll be able to guide you on your journey to experiencing Bordeaux and, ultimately, exploring the whole wine world.
So while the classified growths still represent the finest offerings, Cru Bourgeois wines are the place to begin. More than 400 estates earned the label designation in 1932, but there were some issues that caused upheaval as we moved into a new century. The label now guarantees a standard of production and independent quality testing.
One smart strategy is to see if your merchant sells Bordeaux futures and join with friends to invest in several mixed cases of a vintage deemed worthy by expert barrel tastings. You pay lower prices for wines aging in barrels that will be bottled and delivered in two to three years. While it may seem strange, your patience and foresight will be rewarded.
And while you’re waiting, convince those same wine-guzzling amigos to drink communally by taking a class online. Since 1999, Gloria Maroti Frazee has been in charge of education at Wine Spectator. She’s produced a series of superb classes, free to their website subscribers. If you have a group of friends eager to learn more about wine and enhance their experiences with this oldest of beverages, join together to defray the costs of tastings.
In just three Bordeaux classes and samplings, you’ll get a chance to compare quality and price levels to understand cues such as tannic structure, complexity and age-worthiness. Then you’ll examine aroma, tannins and structure from the Haut-Médoc’s top four communes. And finally, you’ll look at a regional comparison contrasting a red trio focused on fruit flavors, tannin levels and structure. The more you actively taste, the more you’ll know about and appreciate what you’re drinking.
Next month, we’ll finish off the region with a look at the outstanding white bordeaux, an excellent value as well as refreshingly crisp.
This article appears in Dec 24-30, 2015.
