The food was disappearing faster than it could come out. Florida Beer Company’s Thomas Barris shuttled trays of zucchini pasta out of the makeshift kitchen, deftly averting the long-haired tattooed guy, the woman in the cherry-blossom dress, and the guys in polos and cargo shorts.
Beers, Bites & Brushes, a traveling showcase of local culture presented by FBC for the benefit of the Children’s Dream Fund, was off to an exhilarating start.
The event was held at Dan’s Place, the studio of artist Dan Painter in St. Petersburg’s Warehouse Arts District. Tucked away in a corner of Emerson Avenue next to Duncan McClellan’s glass studio, Dan’s Place is laid back and purposefully disheveled. On Friday night, the skeletal remains of an early ’30s hot rod propped open a gate to a courtyard where DJ Re: Pete was spinning “Sweet Jane” by the Velvet Underground.
Inside, ’50s billboards, paintings of mermaids and portraits of athletes from a bygone era hung on the walls and near the stage. Patrons made themselves at home inside and out, enjoying the cool air, sampling beer, or listening to bands and musing over the finer aspects of dining with a spork. “Ben got slammed at his place,” said Barris, a barrel-chested guy with the kind of beard you might find on a hi-wheel bicyclist. He was referring to Ben Harris, featured chef of the event and owner of The Spot Grill in St. Pete. “That’s why the food’s coming out kind of slow.”
The moderate serving pace and modest crowd allowed for easy enjoyment of the night’s menu and suggested beer pairings. Barley Mow Brewing Company of Largo provided its flagship beer, a Black IPA called the Unkindness, which was paired with a fresh jalapeño halved and stuffed with a combination of Chef Harris’ Pico de Gringo (a traditional Pico de Gallo without the cilantro), corn, and softened cream cheese.
The creamy filling of the jalapeño balanced the bitterness of the beer, while the crisp and refreshing pepper paired well with the maltiness of the dark ale.
FBC paired the zucchini with its Key West Sunset Ale, and served its Florida Lager, an all malt classic, with caprese salad skewers — a bright and refreshing combo perfect for a warm Florida night.
Chef Harris rushed in from his own restaurant to assemble the tapas-style menu, quickly getting to work prepping the night’s dishes.
“Anytime I get the chance to do something outlandish, I’m on board for it,” Harris said while stirring a pot of collard greens and watching over some gumbo from his pseudo kitchen behind the outdoor stage.
The Spot Grill’s usual menu is more bar-friendly, focused on burgers and wings, but for BB&B Harris took inspiration from the beer names and the opportunity to showcase various styles of Floridian fare — lighter items like the squash and a shrimp ceviche, as well as heavier foods like “cannonball” meatballs. The beer pairings brightened even the heavier dishes.
Nine hundred meatballs later, the modest crowd had swelled to well over 200. Some food ran out, and some never even made it to the tables before being snatched up by curious patrons.
“This is just feeding the family,” added Harris with a chuckle. The musicians, artists, and brewers in attendance were familiar to each other. Some, like Florida Beer and Barley Mow, even collaborated on special brews for the event.
To Painter, hosting it was a no-brainer. He has been a part of the community for almost 13 years, hosting shows, drive-in movies, and concerts.
“Ah, this ain’t nothing meaningful, brother,” Painter said, shaking off his role. “They’re my friends.”
BB&B will next make its way to Miami and Melbourne, where Barris will continue his quest to place craft beer on a par with wine and to highlight the varied culture Florida has to offer.
This article appears in May 16-22, 2013.