When Sidney Sakho decided to sell his interest in three Washington, D.C.-area restaurants, it was for a reason we're all familiar with. "We wanted to move to sunny Florida," he said. After his efforts to purchase a restaurant down the coast failed, he found himself stuck for the summer. That's when he and his wife discovered Ybor.
"We came across Ybor city and thought it had a great vibe during the day," explains Sakho. "That was before we saw what happened at night." Yeah, Sidney, that's Ybor for you. I'd like to tell him he got in at a good time, that newly-re-branded Gaybor is on an upswing, but I'd have to dial back my inner sense of irony thanks to three decades of roller coaster development in the area.
Thankfully, if Ybor is truly on the upward curve of revitalization as a destination spot for upscale pleasure-seekers, The Nest should fit right in. Elegant food. Moderate prices. Excellent wine list. Hell, The Nest might turn into a destination in spite of the rest of Ybor.
The Nest's menu is loaded with Mediterranean tapas, the kind of culinary engineering we've all seen before. There's a difference here, though, and it lies in the details.
Crab cakes ($9) are exquisite thanks to a profound amount of buttery shellfish, but there's also a crisp crust of toasty corn thanks to a dusting of polenta, accented by a simple salsa of roasted corn surrounding the cakes. Croquetas ($6) are equally simple, and just as successful. The little puffs are delicate and moist, laced with a meager bit of ham that adds aroma more than flavor, with enough fried crust to give your teeth something to dig into.
The Nest's mussels $8) are more mainstream, although cooked perfectly, the only unique factor provided in a choice of three different sauces. Our server called the lobster broth version "incredible," but I'd recommend the cream and bacon if you want your shellfish to have more oomph. Piquillos rellenos ($8) are also fairly typical, but The Nest executes them with competence, the vegetal sweetness of the red peppers meshing seamlessly with a stuffing of mushrooms, spinach and bright goat cheese.
Bake that goat cheese, though, and the result is not nearly as successful. The hockey pucks of formerly tart and creamy cheese are turned into dry, crumbly foam next to an otherwise nice salad ($8) dressed with hazelnut oil and balsamic.
Although The Nest keeps the portions on the small plates in tune with the prices — all under $10 — sometimes the quantity seems scant, like an item labeled "sea scallops" ($10) that featured a single, admittedly tasty cylinder of flesh laced with citrus and veggies.
If you want to get your money's worth, the short list of entrees are all worth a try. They're more comforting, home-style food than the upscale tapas plates, like chicken ($17) that falls off the bone into a bowl of couscous dotted with preserved lemon. Steak frites ($18) features a hefty number of beefy medallions with a crisp crust and excellent red wine reduction that you'll be sopping up with the cubes of fried potatoes on the side.
The lasagna is cheaper than the others at $12, but seems paltry thanks to the lack of a side dish. Drop the price a couple of bucks, put it onto the tapas side of the menu, and most people would be down the simple rectangle of tender pasta, cheese and flavorful tomato sauce with a smile.
Lunch at The Nest is a slightly different experience. Sakho sees more immediate growth potential during the day, but claims that "Ybor city has a routine, people know where they are going for lunch." He's adjusted the menu and pricing to draw in new customers with fewer small plates and more sandwiches and salads.
Make it a long lunch, though, because you might want to pick up a bottle or three off of The Nest's well-chosen wine list. Even better, stop by on Tuesday nights when all the bottles are half-price, allowing you the luxury of a luscious Muga Rosado Rioja for a mere $16 (regularly $32), or a splurgy Guigal Gigondas at $34 (regularly $68).
Order slowly, and plan to stick around for desserts, like a towering fresh fruit tart or rich brioche apple pudding ($6). The Nest has the sort of relaxed but hip, comforting but elegant vibe — and fun Ybor servers — that invites a long stay, despite the lightning speed that the kitchen churns out the tapas.
This article appears in Apr 8-14, 2009.