It sure is fun to dress up and hit star- studded restaurants like Bern's Steak House, with its bustling valets and stretch limos lined up at the door; or the sky-high formality of Armani's, its swank bar festive with partiers swathed in black-tie and shimmery gowns.But with the holidays over, and my stamina depleted by weeks of excess, low-key just seemed better for once. I had been ambling around in my favorite pair of khaki trousers and a plain white shirt, and I didn't want to change. I wanted to go as I was, sit at a clean table, eat something decent and indulge in a couple of hours of uninterrupted conversation.
Circles Restaurant was the ticket. Its food is respectable, its service fine, its crowd restrained, and its ambiance — easy.
It's set anonymously behind the main row of restaurants that line South Howard Avenue in Hyde Park, it occupies a corner with a partially blocked-off street in front. Nearby is an infamous intersection where at least two people I know personally have totaled cars in head-on accidents.
A modest foyer faces an an attractive bar set off from the rest of the restaurant. We followed the host into a corridor that opened onto several quiet dining rooms, all decorated in the same calm taupe color, accented with tasteful plants and cloud-white table linen.
The crowd reflects the restaurant's simple ease. There was a couple with a middle-schooler who was bopping around like kids do. (Once they were ushered into the warren of hushed dining rooms, though, we never heard or saw them again). We ran into Tampa real estate attorney John Neukamm, his wife, Kathy, and two teens who had stopped to eat on their way to see The Lion King.
In another room was former Hillsborough County Commissioner Chris Hart, dining with his wife and another couple. Nearby sat a young couple just finishing their meal, accompanied by a new baby, sound asleep in a carrier. (The poor thing must have been drugged, because normal infants are universally programmed to sleep only until the food arrives, then begin screeching at the decibel level of a power saw).
So casual, so comfy, so stress-free. No demands on the diner, except maybe that you're a Homo sapien. And are breathing.
I had a hankering for a Cosmopolitan ($3), and The Martini Tester went with his usual Bombay Sapphire martini ($3.50). The latter floated shards of ice, even though it was ordered "up." A small error; otherwise, the drinks were adequate. They served the purpose, providing that moment of relaxation before the appetizers materialize, time to mull and chill and adjust your chair. Turn off the cell phone, fuss with a jacket and peruse the menu.
Suffering from two weeks of holiday-related complications, I had trouble deciding what to order. But the drinks had a focusing effect; finally, I chose the Satay appetizer ($6.25).
It involved two skewers of beef, marinated in curried coconut milk, charbroiled, and served with a peanut dip and a cucumber relish of the freshest diced cukes, tomatoes and red onion, bathed in a light vinaigrette. The dish was pretty, but awkward to eat because the pieces of meat were large, and clung stubbornly to the skewers. Removing the meat was tricky because when I resorted to knife and fork, I nearly sent it flying into Commissioner Hart's lap. Might the chef just cut it smaller?
Probably the best dish of both visits was lobster bisque ($3 cup/$4.25 bowl), a devilishly spicy, smooth broth fortified with big chunks of lobster meat. Rich with heavy cream, it carried a veiled hint of burning hot pepper that distinguished it from all other versions I've ever eaten. Really excellent. A terrific snack might include the bisque, a couple of Circles' soft, white homemade buns, and the excellent Caesar salad ($5.95, $2 if you order it with an entree), each crisp leaf of Romaine perfect, red onions and croutons exactly right, and the garlicky, Caesar dressing pungent in the mouth.
We barely noticed the efficient, nearly invisible server, who came and went with hardly any fuss. Dirty dishes just disappeared from the table — I guess when we were otherwise occupied — and the courses marched across it with predictable, satisfying regularity.
When we got to the entrees, I chose shrimp Mediterranean ($15), delicately marbled pink and chubby shrimp set with mushrooms, capers, tomatoes and feta in a simple buttery, white wine sauce. It sat atop a steamy mound of angel hair pasta, unusually tender and delectable.
The Martini Tester went with Cajun cream tortellini with chicken ($13), strips of blackened chicken and cheese tortellini in a cream sauce, dotted with Romano cheese and colorful green peas. It was bright, tasty and effectively done, and like every entree ordered in the dining room, it came with his choice of soup or salad.
On another visit, I tried nut-crusted grouper with Thai chili beurre blanc ($15). The mild fish rolled in nuts and pan-fried, lathered with white wine sauce, and set beside rice pilaf and grilled zucchini. It was the only really mediocre entree in two trips there — it just lacked verve. I left half on the plate.
A better choice was the Louisiana steak ($20), center-cut strip steak, dusted with Cajun spice and pan fried, then ladled with sherry cream sauce and showered with onions, mushrooms and basil. The meat was hearty, tender and cooked exactly to medium rare, and its sauce an expressive bow to the culinary genius of New Orleans.
The best dessert by far was creme brulée ($4), silken pudding crusted over with a browned, stiff layer of burnt-sugar. It was all melt-y softness underneath, matched with a thick, crunchy topping.
Chocolate walnut cake with chocolate chips ($3) was certainly gooey enough for any chocolate aficionado, but it had hardened in the refrigerator and was too cold and lifeless to charm me. A good cup of hot cappuccino ($3) helped somewhat. Key lime pie ($3.75) the restrained color of winter sunlight, carried a sharp, citrus-y filling, but its crust was disappointingly mushy.
Overall, though, Circles does a good job with the food and is a comfy, respectable choice.
Contact food critic Sara Kennedy at sara.kennedy@weeklyplanet.com or call 813-248-8888, ext. 116.
Frank-El-ly SpeakingFor those of you who like a fulsome buffet, try the little one-room place Frank-El Restaurant. It's tucked in a ragged shopping center in north Tampa that specializes in home-cooked Southern-style fare. You can't beat it with a stick.
The Tuesday-Saturday lunch buffet costs only $6.49 and typically features baked chicken, fried pork chops, country fried steak, Salisbury steak, beef and pork ribs, cabbage, green beans, candied yams, macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes, collard greens, yellow squash, gumbo and fried fish. You can eat in or take out.
The Sunday brunch, cheap at $8.99 per person, recently displayed baked chicken, yellow rice, barbecued ribs, potatoes with red peppers and onions, turnip greens, macaroni and cheese, pork smothered with gravy, yams, red beans and a light cornbread. And that was before the made-that-morning-fresh red devil's food cake with nut butter frosting or the sour-cream pound cake that's so good. Just looking at it puts on weight.
Oh, Frank-El's decor runs to modest pink tablecloths and a TV blaring sports, but hey, you're not going to eat any cheaper or better down-home food around these parts. An added attraction: You'll probably meet the three remaining native Floridians in the state chowing down on farm-style victuals.
Contact food critic Sara Kennedy at sara.kennedy@weeklyplanet.com or call 813-248-8888, ext. 116.
This article appears in Jan 8-14, 2003.