Bowled (3451 4th. St. N., St. Petersburg, 727-895-2695) is built on a gimmick, but that doesn't mean the food isn't good. Everything at this new restaurant is served — you got it — in a bowl. First time restaurateur Michael Cecere, who's worked at the Melting Pot and the Ciccio & Tony's clan, put some talent in the kitchen to add vim to those vessels of grub. Formerly of Cafe Ponte, chef Matt Cummings is Cecere's golden boy; he couldn't say enough about him.

The place is so slick, it looks like a chain, but Cecere isn't really thinking along those lines. "If you have the money, I'd be happy to do something," he said, "but it was a struggle just to get this built."

Right now, Bowled is open for lunch Mon.-Fri and dinner all week, with brunch coming to the weekends in a couple of weeks.

Check out the full Bowled menu after the break. No, wait, try this — Check and see if the menu Bowls you over, after the break. Or maybe — Check and see if Bowled's menu is a strike, after the break. Whatever, here it is:

This article appears in Nov 5-11, 2008.