Early reconnaissance indicated that I should expect something fabulous from a new SoHo restaurant called Chandler's. Reports from the front indicated that the restaurant's new partners — Dwight and Lauren Otis, both chefs who for years ran The Next City Grille and Antipasto's — were veterans with shining culinary resumes.
After dining there twice, once at dinner and again at lunch, I'm pleased to report that Chandler's is pretty terrific. The food was, for the most part, amazing, the service good, and the setting dim and delightful.
Inside, Chandler's is all polished wood and one whole wall of windows, which at night takes on a candlelit sheen that's casual but stylishly so. Slow jazz wafts over the sound system, and the long bar on the right side of the restaurant provides a central spot to hang and wait for a companion — or to watch the coiffed socialites, savvy young businessmen and well-heeled couples out for the evening.
Once the menu arrives, it only gets better: How many other restaurants carry dishes made with venison or buffalo? At how many other restaurants do you taste Belgian endive and watercress in the salad? Even the bartender passed my stringent test, gracefully delivering an excellent Sidecar (made with lemon juice, Cointreau orange-flavored liqueur and brandy, $7). Its contents were perfectly chilled and a delicate ring of sugar encircled the rim of the glass like stardust.
This was all capped off by the prices: Chandler's is very reasonable for such excellent fare.
We started with drinks and a little dish of complementary appetizers that were delivered to each table. Sitting primly on the plate were tiny teasers — the best was a thumb-length piece of blanched okra with a mild stuffing of quinoa grain that was delicious.
A few minutes later, the appetizer we had ordered arrived: Ropa vieja venison ($7.95). Made with roasted poblano chilis and accompanied with a sweet corn relleno, it sure did make the grade. Somehow, the chef had tamed the harsh, gamy edge of the venison so it was distinct, but mellow. Its melty gravy was over-the-top.
We also tried a cup of Ybor Gumbo ($2.75), a light broth pocked with the Spanish sausage called chorizo, pork, chicken and shrimp. In a perfect world, maybe the broth could have been more assertive, but it still registered a big plus because it was such an unusual and ambitious dish.
One nice aspect of the menu: Light eaters would probably be satisfied with the handmade rolls and butter and a couple of appetizers, along with dessert and coffee. The portion sizes are ample. Another plus: The menu changes daily to better take advantage of Florida's abundant seasonal produce, which the chef uses to good advantage in his many vivacious dishes.
But I don't recommend skipping an entree at a place like Chandler's. A huge chunk of leg of lamb ($12.95), simmered with rosemary and rimmed with whole Brussels sprouts, came my way, its scent enticing, the meat so tender it fell from my fork. My dining companion lucked out with a fine piece of mangrove snapper ($14.95), draped with tasty, smooth white sauce.
Dessert for me was a Lauren Otis creation — a thick chocolate truffle concoction with Cabernet syrup ($5), sure satiation for a confirmed chocoholic. My hubby ordered creme brulee ($5), a lovely custard overlain with a layer of caramelized sugar so firm it reminded us of one northern winter when we skated in the woods upon the frozen surface of a pond.
Another day at lunch, I sampled Lauren's handmade pasta in the form of ravioli stuffed with roasted eggplant and served with warm greens and a rich wild mushroom ragout ($9). The pasta was just heavy enough, and the filling light but still full of flavor. It was a knockout. It came with a really gorgeous Bistro salad ($2.75), which contained an unusual assortment of greens and veggies, like escarole, watercress and Belgian endive.
My lunch companion that day ordered a much simpler dish that turned out to be just so-so: It was a hamburger platter ($6.95) that arrived with a fat burger, topped with a flashy Vidalia onion sauce. But the meat patty itself was just OK, even kind of limp, and the thick french fries were downright ordinary ($6.95). Meanwhile, I'm in ecstasy with the frou-frou salad and snarfing down the pasta.
The server kept trying to take the plate away, but I was so impressed with the food, I would eat, then pause, stop and, a few minutes later, taste again, pause and stop, the better to evaluate its quality. In all, though, servers during both of my visits were polite, patient and considerate. And the food appeared promptly.
My dining companion ate the burger and some of the fries without complaint. He was rushed and planned to skip dessert, but alas, certain obligations are required on such missions, so he went along with me when I ordered one of the half-dozen sweets on the lunch menu.
It was a wedge of tart made of a rich shortbread, with cookie crumbs layered top and bottom around a zesty raspberry filling ($5). The server had brought two spoons, so we split it, an enjoyable finish. He left happy, and I left vowing to return soon.
Chandler's is certainly a promising newcomer to SoHo that will make Tampa proud.
Sara Kennedy can be reached at sara.kennedy@weeklyplanet.com or 813-248-8888, ext. 116.
This article appears in Nov 15-21, 2001.