4 out of 5 stars
2545 N. Rocky Point Dr., Tampa
813-281-2545; thecurrenthotel.com/food-beverage
Savory bites: $5-$18; no dessert; beer/wine/cocktails: $5-$16
The new 180-key Current Hotel (stylized “CURRENT”) has sprouted at the south end of Tampa’s Rocky Point. After zooming up its tight U-shaped tilt-a-whirl front ramp and passing my keys to the required valet, I notice that it’s part of the “Autograph Collection.” My pulse quickens. These boutique hotels partner with Marriott, but display unique charms. Current joins Hyde Park’s Epicurean and Dunedin’s Fenway, which both have welcoming rooftop bars. The Fenway, of course, has the unbeatable sunset view over St. Joseph Sound, which guarantees tight quarters to watch the star of our solar system dip below the horizon.
We enter the modern lobby with its rippling wave ceiling, and are whisked by elevator to the roof wondering how it might compare. Lest you wonder, Rox has the most sweeping panoramic view of Tampa Bay of any bar in the region. And it’s huge both inside and out. The rectangular interior has floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides with 180-degree plus views. And the exterior patio that wraps around opens up to a visual playground with views from Tampa International to the Howard Frankland Bridge across to St. Pete-Clearwater Airport looping back to Courtney Campbell Causeway. You’d need to be a pelican or osprey to get a better view.
And then there are the hand-crafted cocktails. “Rosita: Queen of the Sea” is a Rothko painting in a rocks glass with a bracing tart edge. The single clear cube of ice barely fits in the glass. It’s engulfed by a fiery red sea of alcohol that hints of the flaming sunset afterglow that is to come. A tiny Lilliputian clothespin pegs a wide swath of bright orange peel to the delicate rim. The citrus stretches from below the surface, lurching skyward like a breaching whale. Smooth and velvety Ilegal Mezcal Joven is a 100% small batch agave from Oaxaca that eschews the smokiness you might expect. Campari adds some bitter, herbal notes, and a touch of sweet Carpano Antica Formula red vermouth softens the edge. The Deco-esque glass itself is etched with a series of rings that move halfway up the outside like a circular ladder. Just wow.
A study in contrast is Currently Kinky. A tall stemmed glass builds a refreshing cocktail around Kinky Pink vodka with a “naughty fusion” of mango, blood orange and passion fruit. Fresh lemon juice, some St. Germain, rich vanilla, and simple syrup with ginger spice infusion make for a complex affair on your tongue. It’s topped with cava for some spritz and beautifully garnished with three colorful flowers, which float on the surface—petals up—in a line from magenta to white to pale yellow.
The charcuterie board combines a trio of thin meat slices including an unexpected house-cured pork loin plus wedges and cubes of ripe cheese, pickled cornichon, sweet golden raisins, and candied lemon peel plus a yummy bowl of fig jam. The rectangular Hyde Park Flatbread is a delicious melange of ricotta and garlic topped with crispy shredded brussels sprouts, thin butternut squash slices, melted mozzarella and a drizzle of truffle honey. It’s sliced crosswise into eight “fingers” that make a superb cocktail snack.
And, of course, there must be tacos—which are the culinary playthings of the moment. Citrus grilled achiote shrimp topped with shreds of cabbage and pickled kohlrabi, plus some heat from jalapeño, and minced cilantro make for a flavorful combo.
But the real surprise is the tortilla of caramelized cauliflower with golden florets, marcona almonds, and julienned slices of pickled red Fresno peppers dancing with greens scallions like Christmas confetti. It all sits on a layer of garlic whipped goat cheese and is a vegetarian dream.
The serving staff is friendly and attentive. We strike up a quick conversation with one angelic-faced staffer taking care of our needs. I make an inquiry about their future goals; in these perilous times, a dose of youthful optimism is generally an uplifting tonic. In between bites and sips, we press for details and later learn of a family separated and a young sibling in Puerto Rico unable to go to school for the past two months due to the earthquakes. “All I want is to bring them back.”
As we revel in the unparalleled view, the splendid cocktails and tasty snacks, I count my many blessings. Venus is blazing above the pink and orange afterglow in the western sky. It’s a tiny glistening diamond shining over Tampa Bay… and our neighbors 1,200 miles to the south, as well.
As you fill up all your senses, take selfies and document the glories that Rox offers in spades, don’t take it for granted. It’s easy to become jaded. A reminder of the struggles around us prompts a cocktail-fueled discussion on gratitude. We can’t help but reflect on our own privilege and be mindful of others’ struggles. We conclude that in the politically divisive months ahead, we must all celebrate our good fortune and freedom to eat, drink and revel in the glories of nature, all the while dialing up our empathy.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge is the Bay area’s longest running food critic and dines anonymously when reviewing. See his list of Tampa Bay’s 50 best restaurants of 2019, check out the explanation of his rating system and read his new book, 'Drink.More.Wine!'
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This article appears in Feb 27 – Mar 5, 2020.