This scallop is topped with the U.K.'s answer to Fritos. Credit: Jon Palmer Claridge

This scallop is topped with the U.K.’s answer to Fritos. Credit: Jon Palmer Claridge

The beguiling charm of an English-manor-house-turned-luxury-hotel is particularly disarming for an American abroad. Just down the road from ancient, yet awe-inspiring, Warwick Castle in the town of Royal Leamington Spa lies Mallory Court, an award-winning Relais & Chateau property.

For a special Christmas Eve carol concert and dinner in Mallory's Knight's Suite banquet hall, diners are greeted with mince pies and mulled wine. Then, the Choir of Boys and Men from St. Mary's Collegiate Church shows off the British penchant for pomp and circumstance.

As the singers glide past clad in bright, floor-length scarlet cassocks, it's the ruffled collars framing the angelic faces of the boy sopranos that bring a smile to my face. The choir's beautiful harmonies are a perfect segue to executive chef Paul Foster's delectable three-course dinner.

Ruffled white collars frame the boy sopranos’ faces. Credit: Jon Palmer Claridge
A golden seared scallop sits atop bright green watercress panna cotta garnished with a homemade bacon frazzle — the U.K.'s answer to Fritos. Our entree of tender, pink beef medallions rests on a crisp rosti potato within luscious Maderia jus. The plate is dotted with al dente parsnip and squash squares, a sweet carrot chunk that has twice as much flavor as a U.S carrot, and a quintet of lovely, crisp haricots verts.

Our meal comes to an elegant close with long strip of luxurious white and dark chocolate pave, topped with a creamy malted milk ice cream quenelle; two ripe red raspberries stand guard.

We leave filled with the holiday spirit, primed for the Queen's Christmas Day speech.

This article appears in Dec 24-30, 2015.

Jon Palmer Claridge—Tampa Bay's longest running, and perhaps last anonymous, food critic—has spent his life following two enduring passions, theatre and fine dining. He trained as a theatre professional...