Café European, reborn on Westshore, features a simple, stylish dining room and open kitchen. Credit: Chip Weiner

Café European, reborn on Westshore, features a simple, stylish dining room and open kitchen. Credit: Chip Weiner

Café European

3 out of 5 stars

3343 S. Westshore Blvd., Tampa. Appetizers: $4-$9; entrees: $8-$19; desserts: $6; BYOB ($5 corkage). 813-769-9406; cafeeuropeantampa.com.

Several of my Tampa-based friends recommended that I try Café European in its Hyde Park storefront directly across from the University of Tampa. Sadly, because CL is focused weekly on shining a light on new additions to the restaurant scene, I never made it before they closed. It seems after 21 years, Suzy and Mike Vanderburg needed a break.

Luckily for us, these U.K. transplants (he London, she Bournemouth) wanted to downsize a bit, not retire. They've found an intimate space on Westshore that's adjacent to an inlet off old Tampa Bay, simplified the menu and trimmed the hours. They're planning a deck, but the outside already houses a group of waterside tables under majestic and towering live oaks.

Inside is a cozy room with an open kitchen so you can see chef Suzy hard at work. There's a chalkboard with weekly specials of soups, entrees and desserts. But perhaps most notable are the brightly colored splashes of persimmon-hued paint on the cheery walls.

Owners Suzanne and Michael Vanderburg. Credit: Chip Weiner

Mike is a practiced and engaging host. It's like dropping in to see friends for a home-cooked meal. We begin with a cup of warm leek and potato soup that's full of flavor, but much thinner than the hearty, rustic cauliflower version laced with blue cheese.

Both are tasty, and your reaction will depend on your expectation. One tablemate finds the first too thin, as a spoon secretly sneaks a dip into my thicker cup. They're just different. The thinner soup still has plenty of flavor from the magic alchemy of potatoes with leeks. Maybe because these are the same elements in vichyssoise (which is served cold) and generally substantial, the thinner texture is notable. However, I'd feel safe ordering whichever soup suits your fancy. They're made from scratch daily — as are the quiches and hot pressed sandwiches.

One option is to enjoy your soup with a house salad of mixed greens, cucumber, red cabbage and carrots with a bit of tomato. It comes with a tangy, house-made French vinaigrette that's simple and fresh. The fried calamari appetizer special is crisp and tasty even if it looks a bit pallid. The portion is generous, and Suzy's lemon aioli is bracing and pops with bright citrus. But hotter oil would yield a golden color, which is more appealing.

Nicely seasoned and topped with mashed potatoes and cheese, shepherd’s pie has ground beef, carrots, celery and onions. Credit: Chip Weiner

We focus on a couple of traditional British entrees. Fish and chips are piping hot with nicely crisp, flaky Icelandic cod, though the batter is slightly bland. Even so, the fish is the star, and with a drizzle of malt vinegar, you'll barely notice. The French fries (Mike volunteers that they're dipped in rice flour) are enjoyable and crispy. They're not as thickly cut as you might get across the pond, but they're textbook. And once again, as with the aioli, the house-made tartar sauce is a great match.

Shepherd's pie is, strictly speaking, cottage pie because it's made with ground beef instead of lamb (that seems to be a common preference in the states). In any case, it's nicely seasoned with carrots, celery and onions and topped with creamy potato mash. What's odd is the acidic gravy resembling motor oil. It's so dark that I'm surprised when it arrives at the table. While the gravy also lacks a beefy taste that would complement the ample serving, it's easy to enjoy the meat and potatoes. This gravy isn't bad, just unusual — and, for me, not a useful addition.

Roasted salmon is one of three entrees that change every week or so. It's classic, simple home cooking on a bed of sautéed leeks, with tender new potatoes and crisp broccoli. Each element is cooked perfectly — comforting yet without flash. As I write, the Café European website's specials list prosciutto and Boursin chicken, steak Dianne and seafood crepes. What's great is that there's always something new.

The strawberry crepe is served warm with Nutella, plus s’mores-style marshmallows, graham crackers and chocolate sauce. Credit: Chip Weiner

The regular desserts feature a light chocolate mousse, bread and butter pudding, and an absolutely delicious Icky Sticky Toffee Pudding, a British tradition that you rarely see and I dearly love. The rich, dark moist cake gets its sweetness from dates and sits in a pool of warm, lush caramel sauce. It's so decadent that the Vanderburgs serve it with a grave warning label: "Gooey! Rots your teeth and makes you fat — awesome!" I couldn't agree more.

One dessert from the chalkboard is a warm crepe slathered with creamy Nutella, dotted with sliced strawberries and rolled up s'mores-style with marshmallow and some crunchy graham crackers. The whole thing is then served with a wild squiggle of chocolate sauce. I enjoy it even as visions of the sticky toffee pudding dance in my head.

There's no alcohol on the menu, but you may BYOB for a reasonable $5 corkage. They offer a range of bottled drinks, plus hot or iced tea and coffee. We order sweet tea, and after our drinks are served, I notice an extra glass of ice filled to the brim with a long spoon. Without asking. It's a thoughtful, attentive touch. Just like eating a home-cooked meal with friends.

Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.

Outside, where a deck is planned, waterside seating is shaded by large live oak trees. Credit: Chip Weiner

A Mediterranean grilled chicken salad of orzo, sun-dried tomatoes, kalamata olives, feta, artichokes and cilantro lime dressing. Credit: Chip Weiner

The Tampa eatery has a weekly specials selection of soups, entrees and desserts. Credit: Chip Weiner

A current special is chicken stuffed with garlic and herb cheese and wrapped in proscuitto with steamed vegetables and mash. Credit: Chip Weiner

Greek quinoa salad highlights brown rice and quinoa, diced tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, feta, pepperoncini, red and yellow peppers, kalamata olives, and Greek dressing. Credit: Chip Weiner

Italian sausage, butternut squash, kale, broccoli, carrots and celery make up the Italian sausage and vegetable soup. Credit: Chip Weiner

This article appears in Oct 27 – Nov 3, 2016.

Jon Palmer Claridge—Tampa Bay's longest running, and perhaps last anonymous, food critic—has spent his life following two enduring passions, theatre and fine dining. He trained as a theatre professional...