D.P. Dough
2.5 out of 5 stars
500 S. Howard Ave. #C, Tampa. Wings, tots and stix: $2.95-$7.50; calzones: $7.25-$7.75; desserts: $1.95-$6.50; fountain drinks: $1.95. 813-603-7646; dpdough.com.
D.P. Dough grew out of a mother-son food truck in Massachusetts in the '80s and now has 27 franchise locations in 16 states. The basic premise (as stated on their website) is, "we are best known for being THE PLACE to go or call when it is crazy late. Who else is gonna deliver you a custom made calzone after the bars close?"
That's the good news. Everything is fresh and piping hot. Although there are a few tables for waiting or eating, it's all packaged to go in square white-and-red boxes.
Tampa's SoHo location is the first that's not directly adjacent to a university of higher drinking, uh, er… I mean, education. That's D.P. Dough's niche — with an emphasis on "dishing calzones, wings & breadsticks in no-frills digs with delivery & late hours."
The bad news (from a food critic's perspective) is that the dough is, in the words of a companion, "lackluster." If your brand name is "dough," one would think that'd be your strength, not a weakness. The fillings are tasty, the marinara for dipping is standard-issue with lots of oregano, and the dough is… just doughy. It's soft and bland, without the chew, char, salt or tang that makes great pizza memorable. You're left depending on what's inside for flavor (and texture).
They offer "zones" in several categories: classics, chicken, meaty, veggie and specialty 'zones just for Tampa. Then there's the "Construction Zone." You choose four ingredients from 12 proteins, 10 veggies, seven cheeses and nine sauces. For an extra 50 cents, you can even "hook it up" and add a flavored coating to the crust. So, it's whatever strikes your fancy.
We try a representative trio. The Italian Zone layers salami, ham and pepperoni with a great mix of mozzarella, Parmesan and ricotta. It's so piping hot, you can barely pick it up when it first arrives. When I'm finally able to attack, the flavor combo is nice; I don't feel the need for marinara dip, either.
In the chicken category, we settle on the Speed Zone. Juicy breaded chicken and spinach with a hint of garlic all gooey alongside mozzarella and ricotta. Again, a fresh and tasty filling in a disappointing crust. The 'zones are, however, a good size. They come cut in half, and my table of tasters leave with half a 'zone to take home for the next day's lunch.
Even the meatless Spinner Zone is full of flavor. The swirl of spinach and mozzarella is balanced by creamy ricotta and enough garlic to make it interesting.
Fans of bread sticks, or "stix" as the restaurant calls them, have variations with herbs, cheese and pesto — all with marinara — or cinnamon-sugar with vanilla icing for dessert.
Given D.P. Dough's university-linked history, it's no surprise that its other items are wings and tater tots. You've got a choice of two tot serving sizes that come plain, cheesy or cheesy with crumbled bacon. We, of course, go for broke. It hardly matters that the taters are not as crispy as I'd like because the blanket of oozing cheddar and crunchy bacon does the job.
For my money, the baked wings are the best thing on the menu. I prefer the traditional variety to the boneless "dunkers." You've got seven dipping sauces or four that may be used for smothering. One is included; more are 75 cents. We settle on blue cheese, which is creamy and adds a piquant edge, but the wings are juicy and just yummy to eat. They add a nice touch of variety to the lineup, particularly if you're ordering past midnight and your mind isn't razor-sharp.
While there's no alcohol, the restaurant offers Coke products by fountain, 20-ounce bottle or two liter. It's well thought out for the after-hours home delivery crowd. Iced tea, including sweet green and raspberry flavors, is on hand as well.
For dessert, Ben & Jerry's pints are featured in nine favorite flavors, plus big chocolate chip cookies fresh from the oven — also soft and doughy, but a bit more acceptable. While the Apple Pie Zone is cinnamon-dusted and served with a side of vanilla icing in place of marina, it makes no sense. The filling is dull, the crust is wrong and we only manage a few bites.
If your idea of a good time is overindulgence a la Animal House until the wee hours, then D.P. Dough is there for you. The restaurant will rush you a rescue pack of hot carbs, or some wings for protein, till 4 a.m. (on weekends) in hopes that that's the cure.
But if you're off "double secret probation" and looking for an artisanal treat outside the generic pizza realm, look elsewhere. Professor Claridge is here for the continuing education of your palate. Remember that the movie's Faber College motto, "Knowledge is Good," also applies to food.
Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.
This article appears in Dec 1-8, 2016.