Made by a trained professional on a closed course. Do not attempt at home. Credit: Chip Weiner

This week, let’s play a word association game. When I say “burger,” you say “_____.”

There are many choices to fill in that blank, but I bet none of you thinks “Lithuania” is in the running. Unbeknownst to most of us (happily leading our lives frolicking in the 72-degree Florida sunshine) — 5,323 miles, seven time zones and 40 degrees colder to our northeast — Simas Slabaciauskas and his Vilnius buddies are obsessed with bringing gourmet burgers to town.

They longed to have a good burger in a place where they could grab a beer. Thus, in Vilnius in November 2013, Drama Burger was born. It’s so successful that Tampa was chosen for a branch in the U.S., the restaurant brand’s first. These are not just any burgers. They’re cooked on coals, and the brioche burger buns are baked in-house. Theatrical flavors come from house-marinated vegetables and their own special-blend sauces, hence the name.

The Lithuanian breadstick appetizer is made from savory deep-fried rye bread fingers (called kepta duona in Eastern Europe). The crisp black bread with a thick blue cheese dip is too outside the box for a couple of my companions, but the more I eat, the better I like it. Perhaps the problem is that we generally think of breadsticks as being soft; these are more like fresh croutons. They’re crunchy and full of flavor if you can get past your preconceptions.

While you wait, the interior pen-and-ink-style drawings are a delight to study. Credit: Chip Weiner

We’re also surprised by the tempura avocado snack’s great juxtaposition of textures, and the pop a quick dip in the homemade spicy chipotle mayo provides. The restaurant has both skinny and fatter Belgian hand-cut fries as well as a sweet potato version, which is our choice. Though sweet and creamy inside, they could use more exterior crispness.

One of the fascinating aspects of the dining experience here is the quirky artwork. The whimsical, pen-and-ink-style black-and-white line drawings on the inside walls and on the outside facade are by David Schiesser, a well-known painter and tattoo artist from Germany. They are oh-so-much fun and immediately brand the building. They’re delightful to study as you await your burgers.

The burger menu has portobello and chicken options, but we start with the chopped (not ground) salmon burger. The tasty fish pieces are topped with pickled onion and kohlrabi for crunch, plus spinach and roasted leek mayo. It’s a very nice variation of a beef alternative.

I really enjoy the complex, full flavors from the lamb burger, although it arrives at our table lukewarm. Its minced lamb patty is topped with Emmental cheese, pickled eggplant and onion alongside Greek yogurt with cumin and harissa mayo.

The eatery’s pastrami burger is made with a well-guarded Lithuanian recipe. Credit: Chip Weiner

The chorizo burger combines ground Angus beef and Spanish pork sausage in a delicious patty, finished with sweet onions, creamy avocado and a thick slice of confit tomato with chipotle mayo. It’s cooked to a fine medium rare and is juicy and seductive.

The special of the month is the Berlin burger. The toasted brioche bun is piled high with a fat Angus patty sitting on a bed of greens: iceberg, spinach and arugula. On top of that is a molten slab of fried, nutty Emmental with house-made barbecue sauce. Then, there are tart, crisp pickled cucumbers, white onion, spicy chipotle mayo, and a second thick patty with some bacon for fun. Unless you’re a python, there’s no way to taste the whole concoction in a single bite. It is, however, dramatic. While the restaurant has lived up to its name, the burger is done far beyond our requested medium rare.

On weekends, there’s a pastrami burger. The menu informs us that the “first pastrami sandwich was made in 1887 in New York City by the immigrant from Lithuania, Sussman Volk.” Drama Burger has researched an authentic recipe that I can’t wait to try next time. It also offers a selective list of craft beer in cans and on draft, wine and lemonade made in-house (one comes spiced with ginger and caraway). You may choose a vanilla, blueberry or peanut butter milkshake, too.

Of the five desserts billed on the menu, three are available, which is always annoying to me. Don’t put it on the lineup if I can’t order it — list it as a special. The good news is that the two desserts we order are terrific.

Full of surprises, the red velvet cake dessert features fresh berries and more. Credit: Chip Weiner

A half-dome of creamy, tart key lime panna cotta rests in the bottom of a bowl, and dots of bracing lime jelly are piped around the diameter. You can focus on the more subtle flavors of the molded cream or kick it up a notch by incorporating a bit of the sharp jelly onto your spoon. In any case, it’s got that combo of sweet and tart that makes lime desserts so refreshing. Too often, pastry chefs don’t go all the way. This plate is assertive, just as it should be.

The red velvet cake is full of surprises. First of all, the cake itself is moist and flavorful. It’s presented in chunks that look like they’ve been broken off by hand and placed on top of some yummy vanilla ice cream, dotted with fresh berries. The secret weapon is the bottom of the bowl, which features squiggles of soft-ripened cheese that knock your expectations out of balance. It’s the lovely taste that makes this dessert stand out.

Drama, indeed.

Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.

This article appears in Mar 3-9, 2016.