Fuzzy's Taco Shop
2.5 out of 5 stars
5621 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa. Appetizers: $2.50-$5; entrees: $7-$11; desserts: $2.50-$4; drinks: $3-$12. 813-644-5281; fuzzystacoshop.com.
Fuzzy's Taco Shop began in Texas and now has 95 locations in 11 states. Its stated focus is to provide food that's "fresh, fast and fun," an obviously successful formula. The Tampa restaurant is perfectly located to serve a target audience that includes college students seeking affordable food and plenty of alcohol.
Situated on the culinary spectrum above Taco Bell, the chain’s menu is below sophisticated local icons such as Casa Tina, Red Mesa and the like. But if you go in with expectations in the fast-casual realm, you can coast along.
After all, Fuzzy's is a fun place, with brightly colored murals and an open floor plan that blurs the boundaries between inside and out. You order at a counter and food is delivered inside, though outside guests get a flashing pager when their orders are ready. One outdoor table is in the back of a disembodied pickup truck bed on the patio. This is one time it's OK to go without a seat belt, assuming you can keep your drinking in check.
Speaking of drinks, even the regular-size frozen margaritas and sangria come in giant goblets. They’re fine — the sangria could use a kick of fruit to balance the wine's sharpness — but not distinctive.
The starters match chips with a variety of dips: queso, salsa and guacamole. There's also tortilla soup and a drunken pig dish. Our guacamole, presented with a generous portion of chips (available with a sprinkling of "Fuzzy Dust" for some extra heat), is very creamy with lots of diced tomatoes. It's on the mild side — a pleasant, if lackluster, effort. While there's hot sauce on the table, the dip's missing the salt, cilantro, onion and lime that makes great guac pop.
The menu also lacks true variety. It's essentially six to nine of the same Henry Ford assembly line fillings that can be served on chips as nachos; in a soft or crisp taco; grilled as a quesadilla or a sandwich on telera bread; rolled up in a jumbo burrito; and as a plate of enchiladas or fajitas.
Plates come with two sides. Refried or black beans, mix-Mex fried rice and cilantro-lime rice are perfectly fine yet unexciting, and although the Latin fried potatoes have potential, mine are oily and under-seasoned. This is Mexican food that doesn't rock the boat. You can use the hot sauce to kick it up a notch on your own terms, but the basic flavor profile is timid. The most interesting side is borracho (drunken) beans, which come in a bowl with beer and bacon broth and some tomato; it's more like a hearty bean soup and quite tasty.
Fajitas don't arrive piping hot on a sizzling cast-iron platter, and they're skimpy on cheese, which is almost nonexistent on our helping. The enchiladas, however, do have ample cheese, despite their shredded chicken being a bit dry. The tempura fish taco is crisp. And the soft beef taco benefits from the addition of feta, yet there's not enough of the restaurant’s famous garlic sauce to make much of an impression.
For sweet choices, churros or sopapilla chips, you have almost the same dessert, depending on whether you want crunch or enjoyable doughiness. Both are super-sweet with oodles of cinnamon and sugar, and the good news is that the ample coating is in perfect balance. The churros are featured in a huge basket with small two-bite cylinders of fried dough, resembling an ashtray full of small cigars. I can imagine lots of impromptu impressions by giddy, alcohol-fueled guests (who have spent too much time on TMC) pretending to be a Hollywood mobster or Groucho Marx.
And what self-respecting college student can let a week go by without a margarita? If differential calculus or organic chemistry has you feeling down, then a road trip to Fuzzy's is called for. The menu hawks a 50-ounce Fish Bowl — margarita, rum punch or mojito — in LARGE TYPE as well. Underneath, in smaller text, is "2 IDs required" (students take note). The very fine print reminds diners to "please drink responsibly"; I'm not sure how many tacos it takes to balance the alcohol in a Fish Bowl, but be forewarned.
The assembly-line nature of Fuzzy’s makes it difficult to elevate any elements. That means the food is affordable and tasty, but there are no culinary epiphanies to be found.
Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.
This article appears in Mar 2-9, 2017.