Restaurant review: Marina Cantina is a tasty surprise

Frank Chivas and the Baystar Restaurant Group are on a roll.

In May, when I described Salt Cracker Fish Camp as looking like a "giant, sleek, white-and-silver three-tiered rectangular wedding cake" rising "majestically from the asphalt at the Clearwater Beach Marina," I didn't realize that the sweet spot on top was Marina Cantina. And that the additional space on the north side of the "cake" will soon become their artisanal pizza joint.

Up the stairs is a wonderful outdoor area. There are torches, lanterns and multiple fire pits with the marina to the south. The third level is destined to become a great bar scene facing the gulf. Although there's not too much beach visible, there are 30 or so tequilas and inventive margaritas, plus a wide range of cocktails, beer and wine to assure you're well-lubricated while watching Apollo's fiery chariot descend below the horizon.

Sunset, of course, is when the show begins. I'm always amazed when tourists leave before the thrilling colors of the afterglow light the sky. Now you've got a great place to linger with the adult beverage that makes your heart sing. Perhaps red sangria? MC's recipe is a winner, elevating dry red wine with dashes of brandy, fresh citrus and pineapple juice, as well as black raspberry liqueur for a complex and refreshing drink.

Complimentary chips and salsa make a bold statement. The crisp corn chips pop with adobo spices and chunky salsa packs big-time heat; it also rocks ample bits of fiery jalapeño. Proceed with care, especially if you've got a "too darn hot" palate.

The guacamole has huge chunks of fresh avocado, no tomatoes, and just enough white onion, cilantro, jalapeño and fresh lime in perfect balance to make it interesting. It's a tasty beginning along with the bubbling queso fundido. The wide, flat ramekin of warm, mild and creamy asadero cheese is dotted with spicy chorizo sausage and topped with overlapping swirls of roasted poblano chile and cilantro pesto sauces. They both match well with the toothsome chips.

Our entrees are also full of surprise. Lamb doesn't immediately jump to mind when you think of Mexican cuisine. But our three double-cut chops are delicious with a touch of sweet, spicy, dark mole. The white sweet potato mash is satisfying, and the "Aztec corn" turns out to be wonderful, unexpected baby maize tempura on a stick. I'm knocked off-kilter; this seems more fine dining than beach fare. But there it is before me — as I watch the marina's assorted birds and the faux pirate ship pass by.

The restaurant's trio of grouper tacos is sensational. Nuggets of grouper are blackened, but not so much as to overwhelm the fish. They're layered in soft flour tortillas on top of crunchy jicama slaw with creamy jalapeño salsa, then finished with a generous helping of thin, revelatory and crispy zucchini straws. This quickly jumps to the do-not-miss category.

Also terrific is the carnitas. Juicy, slow-cooked pork is shredded and served with salsa verde, alongside a crunchy red onion and radish escabeche. The pickled accent balances the fat in the meat as you load it into a warm tortilla or just enjoy it with the scrumptious rice, which features bits of tangy green olive and pimento. It's another unanticipated treat.

My table is all smiles as we chow down on two beautifully executed sides. Topped with a snaking drizzle of thick cream and queso fresco, sweet sliced plantains are oven-roasted with rum butter. It's delightful, as is the grilled street corn. Its husk is pulled back to expose the bright yellow ear brushed with chipotle crema and sprinkled with chile powder, cotija cheese and a few grinds of black pepper. Each cob may arrive whole or cut into pieces for sharing. In any case, it's another reminder of the importance of corn to Mexican gastronomy — and really yummy to eat.

The kitchen also makes a statement with desserts. The tres leches cake is the polar opposite of Chakana SoHo's; the one you prefer totally depends on personal preference. MC floats the cake in a bowl of "three milks" sauce and garnishes with toasted coconut and crunchy pepitas (roasted pumpkin seeds) that add plenty of texture. I'm trying to make up my mind as I watch my companions empty the bowl like starving buzzards. It's really an individual question of your own sauce fetish.

Possibly the biggest surprise of the night is the arresting chocolate-on-chocolate cake with piped avocado mousse and mole. At first, the avocado with chocolate strikes me as a repulsive combination. But after our lovely meal, I should be more trusting. The avocado mousse has a sweet cream cheese base that's absolutely wonderful with the rounds of moist chocolate cake. The mole sauce wisely only hints at spice, and the result is transporting. In one bite, I go from doubting Thomas to devoted disciple. It's a dish I won't soon forget.

Now, I can't wait to check out the pizza that's promised soon. My peek in the window reveals a Lamborghini of an oven that bodes well for another trip west to view Apollo's chariot from the top tier of the house that Frank built.

Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.

This article appears in Jun 30 – Jul 7, 2016.